27/7/11- Humanitarian luxury
One could get quite used to a little bit of luxury. As we missed out boat and flights though Flores we stayed on at our little island retreat. One likes coffee served in a cafeteria, a choice of eggs with fresh toast and fruit for breakfast, rooms cleaned every days, a hot powerful shower and a general air of civility. Mixing with other travellers it’s like we are for a developed country and they are from in impoverished one. As such we decided to do some humanitarian work and offered Doreen a hot shower and a fresh towel. She gratefully accepted.
I collected my laundry today and was robbed although I don’t know how. After many months of taking laundry to be washed by the kilo I am fairly good at guessing the weight of the bag of clothes plus or minus 2kg. So I had expected to pay for 5-7kg of clean laundry but was told that it was in fact 10kg. Only once in 5 months have we had a bag of washing weighing 10kg and that was after the trek up the volcano and we were washing half of our clothes including all our heavy walking trousers and fleeces. I was convinced they were trying to rob me so I insisted that we weigh the washing and predictably they had no scales. I suggested going to the shop next door and somehow the scales must have been weighted as the read out was 10kg. I am perplexed as to how this was achieved and in the words of James when I recounted the story…kill them!!!!
As now is my routine on this extended island stay I trotted around the island having the route march down to 55minites knocking 10miniutes of my previous personal best? I even managed a second lap later in the day with company - both James and Doreen.
Dinner was again overlooking the sea with beautiful sea views and a wonderful temperature. That said when extremely loud conversation killing music was turned on the three of us looked at one another and decided to retire to bed. Physical we may be young enough to enjoy music but mentally we are old sods… turn that noise down!
28/7/11… Tourist clichés
As our trip to Asia is nearly at an end we decide that we had better do some of the things tourist do so here goes
1) Drink from a fresh young coconut- tick…. Note- not missed by not doing this before. Taste horrid
2) Eat a pineapple that has been peeled and served to you by the hawker on the beech… Note- this is rather tasty maybe we could have done more of this??
3) Pay for something on your card incurring a 3% charge… Note- this has been necessary due not to poor planning but the extended stay on an island with no ATM’s. One shall not be doing that again!
Somehow we have managed to fill the rest of the day with doing nothing again. Breakfast, three house of internet surfing, lunch, reading by the sea, dinner bed. Very relaxing but leaves very little to talk about on the blog…
29/7/11-Australisia calling…
We actually did something today. We caught the 8.30am Island hopping boat and you guessed it went to another island. After disembarkation (wading through the sea) we headed to a bird park and observed lots of rather beautiful parrots and some that looked like they had the mange. We also got one hell of a shock when we looked over a 5ft wall and saw a fucking crocodile just sitting there. Well I nearly shit myself and instructed James to peek over the wall again to confirm what I had seen. It was indeed a crocodile about 5ft long looking very evil. Its pen looked like it had seen better days and should it want to escape it probably could. Fortunately it was enjoying a relaxing soak in its pool. We didn’t hand around to see if the pen could contain it!
The afternoon was spent… predictably sitting on the beech reading. The afternoon came round and we waded out to the boat which had got grounded, was listing and had taken on some water. The journey back was very rough and we got rather wet. It was at this point we realised that we were ready to leave Asia as this had turned from an amusing antidote for the blog into a pain in the arse! This combined with the beautiful island scenery failing to excite us and the constant heat we decided that James plan of 5 months in Asia was exactly the right length as we would be in Oz in 3 days’ time!
That evening Asia tried to prove us wrong about wanting to leave. As the sun set all the clouds dissipated giving us a fantastic view of the stars. Being on an island with little light pollution we could see literally thousands of stars. It was truly spectacular!
30/7/11. Turn that noise down!
We actually left Gilli Air after 12 days on the island. This time we opted for the fast boat back to Bali. This was a far faster than the public ferry but it was somewhat more bouncy and rocky. We survived without being sick or capsizing. After collecting our bags at what passed for bedlam at the post we were herded onto a bus for our transfer. Unfortunately there were more people that seats so we enjoyed a two hour drive crushed together with our feet on James bag.
I was dropped in Snaur to get my refund for the flight tickets and James headed on to Kuta to our hotel. Predictably the office was not where the ticket told me it was. In fact there was just an empty shop. I persuaded a local man to ring the office and find out where they were. They had relocated 1 hr. away and funnily had not mentioned this when the hotel rang them about my refund! So I was standing next to a duel carriage way with my bag thinking I needed to get to central Sanur where I bought the tickets from originally. Maybe they could help? Just one small problem a lack of taxis but the same local came to my rescue and offered to take me on his moped and even produced a helmet. After ascertaining that he was not expecting to be paid but would help me find a taxi later (i.e. his mater with a car) we set off to Sanur. Now if I had not been to Sanur before I would have been certain that he was taking me to rob me as we turned down a small passage. Fortunately I recalled that most of Sanur was made up of these passages.
After a few minute we arrived at the original ticket office where I was greeted like a long lost friend. I told them my predicament (over egging how ill I had been causing me to miss the flights) and asked if they could call the company. It transpired that there was a more local office and they were aware they had promised me a refund but unfortunately they bank was closed and I could not have a refund until Monday. Normally I would begin to tell the customer service officer I only needed a refund of 100 and that they would surly have this in the office but alas they spoke no English. This farce went on for 15 minutes involving lots of phone calls. Sensing that I would not be getting any money I suggested to the ticket vendor that I he gave me 1.1m rupiah and he collect the full refund on Monday keeping 200,000 for himself. Another flurry of conversation and phone calls then ensued and he offered me 900,000rp as this is all he had. With a take it or leave it ultimatum I decided to take it as 900,000rp was better the 0rp!
Arriving at the hotel James had already checked in and was reclining in our rather nice room. The original plan had been to have two days of Best Western luxury after roughing it in Flores. As it turns out we had just had 10 days of luxury but were not deterred by another two particularly as we had already paid! Arriving in the room I found James in a state close to ecstasy as the beds were huge and soft, there was air conditioning and free wifi and even better a full sized bath with an unlimited supply of hot water. The only downside was our room looked over the pool which was playing music rather loudly although upon enquiring when this would be turned off we were told 7pm… more on that later!
Deciding to make the most of the hotels facilities James jumped in the bath and I headed down to have a swim in the pool. Later we curled up on the bed with take away street food and watched a movie. Predictably 7pm came and went within a reduction in the music volume. Upon enquiring when it would stop the bar manager looked at me strangely, told me they were having a cocktail party and suggested 10pm. Now this cocktail party appeared to consist of ten 50 somethings eating dinner and screaming to each other over the music which was neither jazz nor classical but hard core nightclub beats. Sensing that the bar man had never been to a cocktail party, had not judged his audience taste in music and was really just pleasing himself I ventured to reception to complain. I was reassured that the music would be tuned down. Three phone calls later, two hours of time and a visit to reception demining to speak to the manager in person and our third floor room ceased to vibrate to the latest club music!
31/7/11 Shopping hell!
After breakfast we jumped on the hotel shuttle bus and headed to the downtown mall. Three reasons for this being 1) its winter in Oz and we need some warmer clothes 2) James wants new clothes 3) there is fuck all else to do in the god forsaken place near the hotel. Location location location- i.e. it’s handy to the airport but it’s my idea of hell. Shopping, drinking and that’s about it. We are surrounded by fat Australians drunk brits and young people on their first holiday without their parents. To make matters worse the clothes appear to be made for people shaped like boxes they don’t even fit me let alone James. One is not happy but the upside is that we can go back to the hotel and stop shopping so I am very happy. Rock on swimming pool!
Returning to the hotel I want to make sure there is no repeat of the noise from last night so I ask to speak to the manager. What I get is the chief accountant he finds the whole thing very amusing and keeps smiling at me. Now not one normally drawn to violence I want to punch him! Eventually he tires of me and walks off and I again ask for the manager. Now this chap has obviously been to customer service training as he lets me tell my story, apologises, reassures me there will be no repeat of the previous night and offers me a free lift to the airport the next day. This reduces my frustration and stops me from demanding the company headquarters address! One is calm now.
Sunday, 31 July 2011
Wednesday, 27 July 2011
James Bond and condoms
26/7/11
After another trot round the island the day was devoted to splaying with formulas on the spread sheet depicting our ability to expand the empire and also job searching.
As darkness fell we set off four a night dive- very James Bond I’ll have you know. Once at the dive sight it was dark and armed with a torch we rolled off the boat and into the water. My use of air is never that conservative at the best of times even less so as I was somewhat nervous. That said I’d had the foresight to ask for a bigger cylinder so was able to breath with gay abandon. The dive itself was somewhat spooky but rather cool. There were frequent moments of unease as I would lose James from my line of sight. Normally he was within arm’s reach!
Being underwater at night we saw an aquariums worth of different creatures. We saw crabs burrowing into the sand, crabs that looked like rocks, a 2metere long moray eel on most amazingly a turtle. Whilst we have seen more than our fair share of turtles on other dives this was special as from its resting place it swam directly towards us and was within touching distance. Its shell was illuminated by our touches and as it past is was a sight to behold.
After diving we the three of us met Kate and had beers served in condoms. Well to me and you they would have been bottles of beer in a cooler but the waiters grasp of English only included the essentials and the safe sex message has obviously been promoted here. Later on the walk back I told James that I was teaching Doreen new words and may particular favourite was tellytubbyissames a word which could be used to describe something that is nonsense. Much to my amusement and his consternation he believed this say ‘well I have never heard that word before.’ To which I used one of my favourite retorts ‘go to da blog.’
After another trot round the island the day was devoted to splaying with formulas on the spread sheet depicting our ability to expand the empire and also job searching.
As darkness fell we set off four a night dive- very James Bond I’ll have you know. Once at the dive sight it was dark and armed with a torch we rolled off the boat and into the water. My use of air is never that conservative at the best of times even less so as I was somewhat nervous. That said I’d had the foresight to ask for a bigger cylinder so was able to breath with gay abandon. The dive itself was somewhat spooky but rather cool. There were frequent moments of unease as I would lose James from my line of sight. Normally he was within arm’s reach!
Being underwater at night we saw an aquariums worth of different creatures. We saw crabs burrowing into the sand, crabs that looked like rocks, a 2metere long moray eel on most amazingly a turtle. Whilst we have seen more than our fair share of turtles on other dives this was special as from its resting place it swam directly towards us and was within touching distance. Its shell was illuminated by our touches and as it past is was a sight to behold.
After diving we the three of us met Kate and had beers served in condoms. Well to me and you they would have been bottles of beer in a cooler but the waiters grasp of English only included the essentials and the safe sex message has obviously been promoted here. Later on the walk back I told James that I was teaching Doreen new words and may particular favourite was tellytubbyissames a word which could be used to describe something that is nonsense. Much to my amusement and his consternation he believed this say ‘well I have never heard that word before.’ To which I used one of my favourite retorts ‘go to da blog.’
Doing nothing…Luke style!
25/7/11
This doing nothing is quite infectious. I have managed to sit still again for lots of the day. James, Doreen and Kate did however view this statement with some suspicion when we met for sun set drinks. They had me recount my sitting still day and it when a little like this.
Wake at 7am and read till 7.40. Breakfast whilst scanning emails and playing online scrabble. Walk round the whole island, Shower, get James breakfast, respond to emails and surf for jobs, re-right CV. Lunch, nap, out for early evening drinks. Ok so not quite the inactivity that James can manage but not bad in terms of me.
James is still not quite right so decided that the best course of action was to recline on the bed all day only interspersing this with trips to the toilet. He did feel up to going out to watch the sunset so at around 6pm the four of us were sitting by the sea sipping cocktails. Yes a hard life I know!
This doing nothing is quite infectious. I have managed to sit still again for lots of the day. James, Doreen and Kate did however view this statement with some suspicion when we met for sun set drinks. They had me recount my sitting still day and it when a little like this.
Wake at 7am and read till 7.40. Breakfast whilst scanning emails and playing online scrabble. Walk round the whole island, Shower, get James breakfast, respond to emails and surf for jobs, re-right CV. Lunch, nap, out for early evening drinks. Ok so not quite the inactivity that James can manage but not bad in terms of me.
James is still not quite right so decided that the best course of action was to recline on the bed all day only interspersing this with trips to the toilet. He did feel up to going out to watch the sunset so at around 6pm the four of us were sitting by the sea sipping cocktails. Yes a hard life I know!
Sunday, 24 July 2011
24/7/11
I woke early and after breakfast headed off for a walk around the island. Three quarters of the way round I bumped in to Kate the British Australian I had met a few nights before. Having a surplus of time I decided to turn round and walk back with her chatting the whole way. Kate proved to be fabulous company and over the course of the hour I learnt that this 60 year old was not old lady. Kate grew up in Guildford and was a rebel and to make matters worse a lesbian. She aged 14 and her then girlfriend 17 would drive off to London and go to the first ever lesbian bar. Here she encounter a whole new world and loved every minute of it. What was not so good was the problem that both girls came from a good catholic convent school and the girlfriend’s parents were senior local dignitaries!
The conversation flowed easily so when we reached our apartment I suggested a coffee. Kate enquired as to whether James was a figment of my imagination or whether he really existed as she had heard lots about him but had never seen him. Despite it being only 9.30am James was awake and even more surprisingly he was in a good mood and his tummy less sore. So he decided to join us for a coffee. The conversation again flowed easily as did the coffee and then lunch and before we knew it 6 hours had passed by. Quite how will remain a mystery but one could suppose there is some form of time vortex on the island?
I woke early and after breakfast headed off for a walk around the island. Three quarters of the way round I bumped in to Kate the British Australian I had met a few nights before. Having a surplus of time I decided to turn round and walk back with her chatting the whole way. Kate proved to be fabulous company and over the course of the hour I learnt that this 60 year old was not old lady. Kate grew up in Guildford and was a rebel and to make matters worse a lesbian. She aged 14 and her then girlfriend 17 would drive off to London and go to the first ever lesbian bar. Here she encounter a whole new world and loved every minute of it. What was not so good was the problem that both girls came from a good catholic convent school and the girlfriend’s parents were senior local dignitaries!
The conversation flowed easily so when we reached our apartment I suggested a coffee. Kate enquired as to whether James was a figment of my imagination or whether he really existed as she had heard lots about him but had never seen him. Despite it being only 9.30am James was awake and even more surprisingly he was in a good mood and his tummy less sore. So he decided to join us for a coffee. The conversation again flowed easily as did the coffee and then lunch and before we knew it 6 hours had passed by. Quite how will remain a mystery but one could suppose there is some form of time vortex on the island?
Island Hopping for money
23/7/11
In order to secure the refund I had across to the next island on the early boat. Unfortunately like the busses in Sedbergh it only remains there for 15 minutes before retuning. This is not enough time to find the office, get the refund and visit a cash machine so Doreen and I opt to stay for the day. We take a relaxed approach to life and spend the first 2 hours sipping coffee talking about the fall of the Berlin wall. It is interesting to talk to someone who at 13 at the time of the wall coming down has lived through a huge part of European History. Doreen grew up in East Berlin and remembers vividly the wall coming down, her first trips to the west and how life changed after the collapse of communism. My trips to Russia as a boy also provided some common experiences so it was in this vain that the time flew by.
After coffee we found the office and amazingly my refund was waiting for me. The company will be getting a good trip advisor review for that. The cash machines however proved to be a little less cooperative. The first two did not work and with the prospect of running out of cash all together during the extended stay on Gilli Air we were somewhat relived to find an ATM that actually worked. The end result was 6,000,000 rupiah in the wallet all in 50,000 denominations. This I mused must be what it is to be wealthy as one cannot close ones wallet.
By now it was lunch time and the island we were on was far busier than its sleepy neighbour. All things are relative mind you as you could walk round in 2 hours. The island also attracts a younger party crowd so there were plenty of magic mushroom shakes on offer along with a host of young men offing “good hash, very good hash.’ Opting for a more conventional drug we sat down to lunch and enjoyed a beer or two.
Later we returned to Gilli air and I found James still in the bedroom. He had ben adventurous as far as the sun loungers but was still feeling fairly rough. The sight of 6,000,000 rupiah did however bring a smile to his face was we fanned it out across his body and took photos of him lying on a bed of cash. If only they were pounds!
In order to secure the refund I had across to the next island on the early boat. Unfortunately like the busses in Sedbergh it only remains there for 15 minutes before retuning. This is not enough time to find the office, get the refund and visit a cash machine so Doreen and I opt to stay for the day. We take a relaxed approach to life and spend the first 2 hours sipping coffee talking about the fall of the Berlin wall. It is interesting to talk to someone who at 13 at the time of the wall coming down has lived through a huge part of European History. Doreen grew up in East Berlin and remembers vividly the wall coming down, her first trips to the west and how life changed after the collapse of communism. My trips to Russia as a boy also provided some common experiences so it was in this vain that the time flew by.
After coffee we found the office and amazingly my refund was waiting for me. The company will be getting a good trip advisor review for that. The cash machines however proved to be a little less cooperative. The first two did not work and with the prospect of running out of cash all together during the extended stay on Gilli Air we were somewhat relived to find an ATM that actually worked. The end result was 6,000,000 rupiah in the wallet all in 50,000 denominations. This I mused must be what it is to be wealthy as one cannot close ones wallet.
By now it was lunch time and the island we were on was far busier than its sleepy neighbour. All things are relative mind you as you could walk round in 2 hours. The island also attracts a younger party crowd so there were plenty of magic mushroom shakes on offer along with a host of young men offing “good hash, very good hash.’ Opting for a more conventional drug we sat down to lunch and enjoyed a beer or two.
Later we returned to Gilli air and I found James still in the bedroom. He had ben adventurous as far as the sun loungers but was still feeling fairly rough. The sight of 6,000,000 rupiah did however bring a smile to his face was we fanned it out across his body and took photos of him lying on a bed of cash. If only they were pounds!
All change
22/7/11
We are supposed to be leaving today but James is far from right and my stomach is playing up a bit. The thought of two days on a boat traveling to Flores is not appealing even with the stop to see Kimono dragons. So rising early I begin to change the plans. Now most travels don’t book things in advance so there is nothing to change and nothing paid out. We do and most of the time this provides huge benefits in terms of always having somewhere nice to stay. So I find myself having to try an cancel the boat trip to Flores along with the flights we have booked to in Flores and the flights to get us back to Bali before heading off to Oz.
The phone calls are not going to be easy. Companies like to take you money but to give it back well the English previously spoken well seams to evaporate! With this in mind I enlist the help of the hotel manager and use the hotel phone passing it over to him when the language barrier becomes an issue. We manage to secure an 80% refund for the boat tickets and I agree to go to the neighbouring island the next day to collect my cash. The internal Flores flights appear not to be able to be refunded but at 20quid I am not too worried. The expensive flight back to Bali is another matter. So the owner talks in rapid Indonesian and we reach a compromise that it may be possible to get a 50% refund on these but they will have to call us back. Amazingly a few hours later they are good to their word and we get a call back and arrange to collect the refund when back in Bali.
Well with the best part of the morning gone I source some breakfast for James and then settle into a good book. In the afternoon Carol Skyped us on what can be described as the worst connection we have ever had. Getting only 9 words out of 10 mead for a difficult conversation! Later I trot round the whole of the idyllic island we are staying on marvelling and the blue sky and sea. Sometime later I arrive back at the apartment with food in hand and James and I recline on the bed and watch a movie.
We are supposed to be leaving today but James is far from right and my stomach is playing up a bit. The thought of two days on a boat traveling to Flores is not appealing even with the stop to see Kimono dragons. So rising early I begin to change the plans. Now most travels don’t book things in advance so there is nothing to change and nothing paid out. We do and most of the time this provides huge benefits in terms of always having somewhere nice to stay. So I find myself having to try an cancel the boat trip to Flores along with the flights we have booked to in Flores and the flights to get us back to Bali before heading off to Oz.
The phone calls are not going to be easy. Companies like to take you money but to give it back well the English previously spoken well seams to evaporate! With this in mind I enlist the help of the hotel manager and use the hotel phone passing it over to him when the language barrier becomes an issue. We manage to secure an 80% refund for the boat tickets and I agree to go to the neighbouring island the next day to collect my cash. The internal Flores flights appear not to be able to be refunded but at 20quid I am not too worried. The expensive flight back to Bali is another matter. So the owner talks in rapid Indonesian and we reach a compromise that it may be possible to get a 50% refund on these but they will have to call us back. Amazingly a few hours later they are good to their word and we get a call back and arrange to collect the refund when back in Bali.
Well with the best part of the morning gone I source some breakfast for James and then settle into a good book. In the afternoon Carol Skyped us on what can be described as the worst connection we have ever had. Getting only 9 words out of 10 mead for a difficult conversation! Later I trot round the whole of the idyllic island we are staying on marvelling and the blue sky and sea. Sometime later I arrive back at the apartment with food in hand and James and I recline on the bed and watch a movie.
All change
22/7/11
We are supposed to be leaving today but James is far from right and my stomach is playing up a bit. The thought of two days on a boat traveling to Flores is not appealing even with the stop to see Kimono dragons. So rising early I begin to change the plans. Now most travels don’t book things in advance so there is nothing to change and nothing paid out. We do and most of the time this provides huge benefits in terms of always having somewhere nice to stay. So I find myself having to try an cancel the boat trip to Flores along with the flights we have booked to in Flores and the flights to get us back to Bali before heading off to Oz.
The phone calls are not going to be easy. Companies like to take you money but to give it back well the English previously spoken well seams to evaporate! With this in mind I enlist the help of the hotel manager and use the hotel phone passing it over to him when the language barrier becomes an issue. We manage to secure an 80% refund for the boat tickets and I agree to go to the neighbouring island the next day to collect my cash. The internal Flores flights appear not to be able to be refunded but at 20quid I am not too worried. The expensive flight back to Bali is another matter. So the owner talks in rapid Indonesian and we reach a compromise that it may be possible to get a 50% refund on these but they will have to call us back. Amazingly a few hours later they are good to their word and we get a call back and arrange to collect the refund when back in Bali.
Well with the best part of the morning gone I source some breakfast for James and then settle into a good book. In the afternoon Carol Skyped us on what can be described as the worst connection we have ever had. Getting only 9 words out of 10 mead for a difficult conversation! Later I trot round the whole of the idyllic island we are staying on marvelling and the blue sky and sea. Sometime later I arrive back at the apartment with food in hand and James and I recline on the bed and watch a movie.
We are supposed to be leaving today but James is far from right and my stomach is playing up a bit. The thought of two days on a boat traveling to Flores is not appealing even with the stop to see Kimono dragons. So rising early I begin to change the plans. Now most travels don’t book things in advance so there is nothing to change and nothing paid out. We do and most of the time this provides huge benefits in terms of always having somewhere nice to stay. So I find myself having to try an cancel the boat trip to Flores along with the flights we have booked to in Flores and the flights to get us back to Bali before heading off to Oz.
The phone calls are not going to be easy. Companies like to take you money but to give it back well the English previously spoken well seams to evaporate! With this in mind I enlist the help of the hotel manager and use the hotel phone passing it over to him when the language barrier becomes an issue. We manage to secure an 80% refund for the boat tickets and I agree to go to the neighbouring island the next day to collect my cash. The internal Flores flights appear not to be able to be refunded but at 20quid I am not too worried. The expensive flight back to Bali is another matter. So the owner talks in rapid Indonesian and we reach a compromise that it may be possible to get a 50% refund on these but they will have to call us back. Amazingly a few hours later they are good to their word and we get a call back and arrange to collect the refund when back in Bali.
Well with the best part of the morning gone I source some breakfast for James and then settle into a good book. In the afternoon Carol Skyped us on what can be described as the worst connection we have ever had. Getting only 9 words out of 10 mead for a difficult conversation! Later I trot round the whole of the idyllic island we are staying on marvelling and the blue sky and sea. Sometime later I arrive back at the apartment with food in hand and James and I recline on the bed and watch a movie.
Thursday, 21 July 2011
This shits and diving
21/7/11
After a mercifully quiet and restful night we are up early and heading off for some more diving. Again it is beautiful and we see highly poisonous scorpion fish, bump head parrot fish (like the napoleon fish) a trigger fish (they will attack if you get too close) and some turtles which may be the latest and most relaxed animals of the sea. The diver masters philosophy on diving is that it’s expensive and as you have paid for an hour you should dive for an hour. In principal good in reality I use my 200 bar of air quicker than this normally. Not to worry the dive leader will give me his second regulator when I am running low on air and I can use his tank. True to the normal course of things I am getting low on air after 40 minutes so spend the last 20 using the instructors air and predictably this is when we saw all the good stuff mentioned previously.
After the dive we realised that the slightly dodgy chicken James had eaten the night before, combined with the bug we think he has already have joined forces to make James rather unwell. His temperature is soaring, he has the shits and feels sick. The afternoon and evening is spent in the room, eating pringles (James snack of choice when he is ill) watching a movie downloaded from the internet. The plush surroundings and private fully function bathroom come into their element at this point!
After a mercifully quiet and restful night we are up early and heading off for some more diving. Again it is beautiful and we see highly poisonous scorpion fish, bump head parrot fish (like the napoleon fish) a trigger fish (they will attack if you get too close) and some turtles which may be the latest and most relaxed animals of the sea. The diver masters philosophy on diving is that it’s expensive and as you have paid for an hour you should dive for an hour. In principal good in reality I use my 200 bar of air quicker than this normally. Not to worry the dive leader will give me his second regulator when I am running low on air and I can use his tank. True to the normal course of things I am getting low on air after 40 minutes so spend the last 20 using the instructors air and predictably this is when we saw all the good stuff mentioned previously.
After the dive we realised that the slightly dodgy chicken James had eaten the night before, combined with the bug we think he has already have joined forces to make James rather unwell. His temperature is soaring, he has the shits and feels sick. The afternoon and evening is spent in the room, eating pringles (James snack of choice when he is ill) watching a movie downloaded from the internet. The plush surroundings and private fully function bathroom come into their element at this point!
The chickens stole my brownie points
20/7/11-
Its 3am and the cockerels are still cock-a-dudalooing. Are these chickens inbread, do they not know it’s the middle of the night, why are they sleeping up a tree as opposed to in a hutch and why can’t they shut up. 5am- its mosque-o-clock and we are being called to prayer. Why of why is this so loud and why does it go on. Dawn and the cockerels are really going for it. Sleep is abandoned!
8am and James is in bed with stomach pain and I am on a mission to find some accommodation that is on the beach front, away from the village and the very audible chickens. First stop is a café that has internet. After clarifying the internet is working I order a coffee to try and address my sleep deprivation issues. It then becomes apparent that the internet is not working and herein ensures an argument with the owner about why I am not paying for my coffee and am in fact going to another café where the internet is working. The end result is I walk off and she calls me a shit. Let’s hope there is more internet on the island.
The other internet café is not working either so as it is nearly the time that boats arrive from the bigger islands I set off in search of some accommodation. 1 hour later I find that there are only 5 rooms on the beach that are out of ear shot of the village chickens. The first room is discounted as it’s next to a building sight, the second next to a generator, the third and fourth are still occupied. Alighting upon the fifth room I am sure that the chickens have stolen the brownie points awarded to me by James for finding a cheap room a few days before. Will this last apartment complex be my saviour and allow me to salvage some brownie points and more importantly find somewhere quite to lay down my head. The initial signs are good. No chickens, mosques or other noisy wildlife. They have vacancies, the rooms are built of a solid material and are sumptuous. I am now torn between sleeping and saving money. How much will this room set me back. The answer 6.5 times more than the cheap room. It almost blows the budget but the room is nice, there is HOT water and we do need to sleep. Relenting I say though almost gritted teeth “ yes I will take the room for three days.”
The next challenge is to get back to the original accommodation but it’s hot now and this is a 40 minute walk. Feeling that the room is expensive enough to warrant the free use of a bicycle I enquire as to whether I could borrow one. Returning to James we pack and then I head off on the bike with the first load of bags. We could have taken a horse and cart on this car free island but I am still in shock and my wallet is firmly in my pocket. Sometime later I return to collect the second bag and head off. Some 3 hours later we are both sitting in the room, smelling rather sweaty but enjoying our unusually plush surroundings. Not only does the toilet have a flush but there are fly nets in the windows, the floor is tiled , the sheet clean, the bathroom is sumptuous, the fan effective and the electricity stays on all day!
After a spot of lunch we decide that we shall spend the day sitting on the hotel sun loungers reading books. After an hour I am inevitably board and decide that I could pass the day by completing our tax returns as despite being on the other side of the world the tax man needs to be kept happy! So overlooking the sea with a beer in hand I began thinking that there are worse place to complete ones missive to the inland revenue.
Some 6 hours later I find we owe more than I would like to and I have a headache so with a slightly better James we head out for dinner. We meet up with Darren once more and bemoan the appalling service we receive. Being in Asia for 5 months I am used to slow and food coming when its ready normally at a Luke warm temperature. That is Asia! What I am not used to is requiring a pair of tits to ensure that I get any form of service. That said Darren realised that there was another caveat- you had to have a pair of young tits as her 35 year old ones did not elicit a speedy service either!
Eventually our food came and it was nice but we suspected that a little of James chicken may have been undercooked but from a BBQ this can be forgiven. What really pissed me off was the tardiness in the delivery of my cocktail. Never keep me waiting for 40miniutes for a drink! Venturing to the bar I enquired as to the location of the drinks and the water said he would make them. I said I would wait and he replied “well I will make these nice girls a drink first”. The girls in question were undoubtedly gorgeous and may even have put out later that night but they had not ordered a drink yet. At this we gave up and headed home resolving to not be annoyed by men who thought only with their dicks!
Its 3am and the cockerels are still cock-a-dudalooing. Are these chickens inbread, do they not know it’s the middle of the night, why are they sleeping up a tree as opposed to in a hutch and why can’t they shut up. 5am- its mosque-o-clock and we are being called to prayer. Why of why is this so loud and why does it go on. Dawn and the cockerels are really going for it. Sleep is abandoned!
8am and James is in bed with stomach pain and I am on a mission to find some accommodation that is on the beach front, away from the village and the very audible chickens. First stop is a café that has internet. After clarifying the internet is working I order a coffee to try and address my sleep deprivation issues. It then becomes apparent that the internet is not working and herein ensures an argument with the owner about why I am not paying for my coffee and am in fact going to another café where the internet is working. The end result is I walk off and she calls me a shit. Let’s hope there is more internet on the island.
The other internet café is not working either so as it is nearly the time that boats arrive from the bigger islands I set off in search of some accommodation. 1 hour later I find that there are only 5 rooms on the beach that are out of ear shot of the village chickens. The first room is discounted as it’s next to a building sight, the second next to a generator, the third and fourth are still occupied. Alighting upon the fifth room I am sure that the chickens have stolen the brownie points awarded to me by James for finding a cheap room a few days before. Will this last apartment complex be my saviour and allow me to salvage some brownie points and more importantly find somewhere quite to lay down my head. The initial signs are good. No chickens, mosques or other noisy wildlife. They have vacancies, the rooms are built of a solid material and are sumptuous. I am now torn between sleeping and saving money. How much will this room set me back. The answer 6.5 times more than the cheap room. It almost blows the budget but the room is nice, there is HOT water and we do need to sleep. Relenting I say though almost gritted teeth “ yes I will take the room for three days.”
The next challenge is to get back to the original accommodation but it’s hot now and this is a 40 minute walk. Feeling that the room is expensive enough to warrant the free use of a bicycle I enquire as to whether I could borrow one. Returning to James we pack and then I head off on the bike with the first load of bags. We could have taken a horse and cart on this car free island but I am still in shock and my wallet is firmly in my pocket. Sometime later I return to collect the second bag and head off. Some 3 hours later we are both sitting in the room, smelling rather sweaty but enjoying our unusually plush surroundings. Not only does the toilet have a flush but there are fly nets in the windows, the floor is tiled , the sheet clean, the bathroom is sumptuous, the fan effective and the electricity stays on all day!
After a spot of lunch we decide that we shall spend the day sitting on the hotel sun loungers reading books. After an hour I am inevitably board and decide that I could pass the day by completing our tax returns as despite being on the other side of the world the tax man needs to be kept happy! So overlooking the sea with a beer in hand I began thinking that there are worse place to complete ones missive to the inland revenue.
Some 6 hours later I find we owe more than I would like to and I have a headache so with a slightly better James we head out for dinner. We meet up with Darren once more and bemoan the appalling service we receive. Being in Asia for 5 months I am used to slow and food coming when its ready normally at a Luke warm temperature. That is Asia! What I am not used to is requiring a pair of tits to ensure that I get any form of service. That said Darren realised that there was another caveat- you had to have a pair of young tits as her 35 year old ones did not elicit a speedy service either!
Eventually our food came and it was nice but we suspected that a little of James chicken may have been undercooked but from a BBQ this can be forgiven. What really pissed me off was the tardiness in the delivery of my cocktail. Never keep me waiting for 40miniutes for a drink! Venturing to the bar I enquired as to the location of the drinks and the water said he would make them. I said I would wait and he replied “well I will make these nice girls a drink first”. The girls in question were undoubtedly gorgeous and may even have put out later that night but they had not ordered a drink yet. At this we gave up and headed home resolving to not be annoyed by men who thought only with their dicks!
Diving
19/7/11-
Diving was again a sight to behold in terms of beauty and creatures of the deep. After rolling into the water from the boat James Bond style we headed underwater. We again saw lots of corral, a multitude of brightly coloured tropical fish, 4 green turtles and some Napoleon fish. Now these were a sight to behold. Think fish shared about 1.5m long and .5m long with a lumpy protrusion like a box on their head (30cm by 30cm) and a beak like mouth. Combine this with 12 of them swimming just 3m away from us and you get the picture- stunning!
After diving we lunched with Doreen and then James feeling unwell in the tummy department went back to our shack. I spent the afternoon exploring the island and reading before returning to see James. We decided that he was best staying close to the bathroom so I would go out for dinner and return in a couple of hours with a pizza for James.
What we had not reckoned upon was the indifferent and incredibly slow service we would receive. Some 2.5 hours later I returned with said pizza along with an aging lesion I had met at dinner and a resolve not to get bothered by poor service. The aging lesbian was Kate. She grew up in London and had subsequently moved to Oz. Her commentary on the social change she had seen in her 60 years was really interesting and as always made me glad to have been born in the 80’s as opposed to any time before that!
Diving was again a sight to behold in terms of beauty and creatures of the deep. After rolling into the water from the boat James Bond style we headed underwater. We again saw lots of corral, a multitude of brightly coloured tropical fish, 4 green turtles and some Napoleon fish. Now these were a sight to behold. Think fish shared about 1.5m long and .5m long with a lumpy protrusion like a box on their head (30cm by 30cm) and a beak like mouth. Combine this with 12 of them swimming just 3m away from us and you get the picture- stunning!
After diving we lunched with Doreen and then James feeling unwell in the tummy department went back to our shack. I spent the afternoon exploring the island and reading before returning to see James. We decided that he was best staying close to the bathroom so I would go out for dinner and return in a couple of hours with a pizza for James.
What we had not reckoned upon was the indifferent and incredibly slow service we would receive. Some 2.5 hours later I returned with said pizza along with an aging lesion I had met at dinner and a resolve not to get bothered by poor service. The aging lesbian was Kate. She grew up in London and had subsequently moved to Oz. Her commentary on the social change she had seen in her 60 years was really interesting and as always made me glad to have been born in the 80’s as opposed to any time before that!
Monday, 18 July 2011
Beautiful and miraculous
18/7/11
I am typing this whilst sitting on a beech on the beautiful island of Gilli Air. The sea is clear blue and gently lapping. The sun is out and there is a cool breeze. Not only is this beautiful but it is also miraculous that I have not been banished to the outer reaches of the island for failing to find suitable accommodation for our stay. This morning I set off with some trepidation as we did not have anywhere to stay on the island and we knew it was busy. I had formulated a backup plan of retuning to Seniggi should our accommodation search prove to be a failure or too expensive but James had told me he had faith in me!
On the journey over we got talking to a German girl called Doreen and by the end of the 30 minute trip I had agreed to try and find some accommodation for her as well (she was diving as soon as she got to the island). So with some parameters from James (no bed bugs, private toilet and a fan oh and AC if I could find it!) I set off on my search. Much of the beach front accommodation was either full or overpriced (800,000R/ 50 quid). Turning off the beech I hit the more local and rural area complete with cows, chickens and goats. After a little while I alighted upon blue moon huts and I was in luck. For 100,000 (7 quid) I had a room with bed (no bed bugs and a promise of a free night should I be bitten) indoor western toilet and a fan. What’s more there were two rooms (the last two) and breakfast was included!
After collecting James (it’s easier to trot round without the bags) we returned to the accommodation and were greeted by a 50 something Swiss German lady. The atmosphere was relaxed, the pace clean and the other guests friendly. James even acknowledged that I had done well and he likes the accommodation!!!
I am typing this whilst sitting on a beech on the beautiful island of Gilli Air. The sea is clear blue and gently lapping. The sun is out and there is a cool breeze. Not only is this beautiful but it is also miraculous that I have not been banished to the outer reaches of the island for failing to find suitable accommodation for our stay. This morning I set off with some trepidation as we did not have anywhere to stay on the island and we knew it was busy. I had formulated a backup plan of retuning to Seniggi should our accommodation search prove to be a failure or too expensive but James had told me he had faith in me!
On the journey over we got talking to a German girl called Doreen and by the end of the 30 minute trip I had agreed to try and find some accommodation for her as well (she was diving as soon as she got to the island). So with some parameters from James (no bed bugs, private toilet and a fan oh and AC if I could find it!) I set off on my search. Much of the beach front accommodation was either full or overpriced (800,000R/ 50 quid). Turning off the beech I hit the more local and rural area complete with cows, chickens and goats. After a little while I alighted upon blue moon huts and I was in luck. For 100,000 (7 quid) I had a room with bed (no bed bugs and a promise of a free night should I be bitten) indoor western toilet and a fan. What’s more there were two rooms (the last two) and breakfast was included!
After collecting James (it’s easier to trot round without the bags) we returned to the accommodation and were greeted by a 50 something Swiss German lady. The atmosphere was relaxed, the pace clean and the other guests friendly. James even acknowledged that I had done well and he likes the accommodation!!!
Stick fighting!
17/7/11
Spending time waking and sleeping with the light meant that we were both awake at 6am. James was not impressed so we maintained the pretence of sleeping until 8am when my stomach demanded food. After breakfast I was dispatched to carry out a number of jobs whilst James reclined by the pool. This you see was part of our wedding vows… balancing my need for activity and excitement with James need for rest and relaxation. We had agreed that following the adventure there would be three days of rest a concept which would normally terrify me but usually was a welcome prospect.
But before resting I had my jobs so I waddled off to the town to book a trip over to Gilli Air (the fab diving island), find accommodation for when we retuned, book some flights for when we were in Flores and tell the Boat people who would take us to Flores where they could pick us up from. A simple enough task list but in Indonesia organisation and speed is not something that comes naturally to local businesses. As such I took part in a pantomime of disorganisation and procrastination lasting the best part of two hours.
Eventually I returned to the pool side spot occupied by James. Alas not a happy James as it was overcast and threatening to rain and as you know “it does not rain abroad!” After a few hours of R&R we skyped carol and then headed out. Yes the plan had been to do nothing but there was Indonesian stick fighting taking place in the village. Normally we would have walked the 15 minutes to the village but instead opted for a moped to whisk our weary asses to the spectacle.
Now stick fighting is as brutal as it sounds. Two men each armed with a 1.5meter length of bamboo attack each other. Both have a shield but never the less the contact leaves a welt on the skin. A number of times the fighters came towards were we were standing causing us to duck out of the way and move back. The common practice appeared to be to locate fighters within the audience and inevitably the attention turned to me. Normally I am one to jump at the opportunity to take part but this time I firmly declined as the travel insurance would not cover injuries sustained in this way!
Spending time waking and sleeping with the light meant that we were both awake at 6am. James was not impressed so we maintained the pretence of sleeping until 8am when my stomach demanded food. After breakfast I was dispatched to carry out a number of jobs whilst James reclined by the pool. This you see was part of our wedding vows… balancing my need for activity and excitement with James need for rest and relaxation. We had agreed that following the adventure there would be three days of rest a concept which would normally terrify me but usually was a welcome prospect.
But before resting I had my jobs so I waddled off to the town to book a trip over to Gilli Air (the fab diving island), find accommodation for when we retuned, book some flights for when we were in Flores and tell the Boat people who would take us to Flores where they could pick us up from. A simple enough task list but in Indonesia organisation and speed is not something that comes naturally to local businesses. As such I took part in a pantomime of disorganisation and procrastination lasting the best part of two hours.
Eventually I returned to the pool side spot occupied by James. Alas not a happy James as it was overcast and threatening to rain and as you know “it does not rain abroad!” After a few hours of R&R we skyped carol and then headed out. Yes the plan had been to do nothing but there was Indonesian stick fighting taking place in the village. Normally we would have walked the 15 minutes to the village but instead opted for a moped to whisk our weary asses to the spectacle.
Now stick fighting is as brutal as it sounds. Two men each armed with a 1.5meter length of bamboo attack each other. Both have a shield but never the less the contact leaves a welt on the skin. A number of times the fighters came towards were we were standing causing us to duck out of the way and move back. The common practice appeared to be to locate fighters within the audience and inevitably the attention turned to me. Normally I am one to jump at the opportunity to take part but this time I firmly declined as the travel insurance would not cover injuries sustained in this way!
Rather stiff
16/7/11
Waking for the final time in a tent we were again somewhat stiff and very smelly. Whilst James was regularly changing his clothes I had opted not to bother deciding instead to ware all of them at once in a vain effort to keep warm at night. After a final breakfast of homemade spring rolls we set off for the four hour downhill trek. At the end point was a welcome sight of the minivan and our mountaineering experience drew to a close.
After a two hour drive back to Seniggigi we rolled into where we were staying. For once a hot bath would have been welcomed but alas the best we could muster was a cold shower. The filth that came off us necessitated a 5 minute cold shower. Bliss it was not but being clean was an improvement! By sunset (6pm) we were thinking about sleeping but managed to sustain ourselves to the heady time of 8pm before collapsing into bed exhausted.
Waking for the final time in a tent we were again somewhat stiff and very smelly. Whilst James was regularly changing his clothes I had opted not to bother deciding instead to ware all of them at once in a vain effort to keep warm at night. After a final breakfast of homemade spring rolls we set off for the four hour downhill trek. At the end point was a welcome sight of the minivan and our mountaineering experience drew to a close.
After a two hour drive back to Seniggigi we rolled into where we were staying. For once a hot bath would have been welcomed but alas the best we could muster was a cold shower. The filth that came off us necessitated a 5 minute cold shower. Bliss it was not but being clean was an improvement! By sunset (6pm) we were thinking about sleeping but managed to sustain ourselves to the heady time of 8pm before collapsing into bed exhausted.
Monkeys monkeys everywhere
15/7/11
After a 12 hour sleep which is some going in a tent on a roll mat we woke for another day of adventure. Feeling very stiff we tottered over to where the porters were cooking breakfast. Banana pancakes, fresh coffee and pineapple. Once we were fortified we set off on our climb back up to the crater rim. Oh my our legs were uncooperative and we propelled ourselves up the steep incline with the aid of a stick putting as much weight as possible through our arms.
After a gruelling three hours we reached the crater rim and whilst we were tired the views were again spectacular. We had ascended to a vantage point overlooking a lake in the centre of a mountain range with two active volcanoes in the middle of the lake. The water was clear blue, the lava flow from the last eruption 12 months ago formed a general slop into the lake and the volcanoes themselves were still letting off smoke.
After lunch of a three layered sandwich with egg, beef and salad followed by more coffee and pineapple we set off for a downhill trek to base camp three. We thought going up was hard but sound found that downhill also had a special section on the pain spectrum too.
Once at base camp three we relaxed, read books and awaited dinner. In amongst all this were monkeys. To begin with they observed from a respectful distance then moved to just two meters away from us. Here the leader of the pack was groomed and occasionally a lady monkey would take his fancy and he would have his wicked way. After an hour of the monkeys observing us and we them they began to get braver. They congregated around out camp and began a raiding party to steel our leftover food. The porters were wise to this and matched the monkeys calls with their own should and charged the monkeys. The result was one orange and some left over fruit to the monkeys and some entertainment for us.
After a 12 hour sleep which is some going in a tent on a roll mat we woke for another day of adventure. Feeling very stiff we tottered over to where the porters were cooking breakfast. Banana pancakes, fresh coffee and pineapple. Once we were fortified we set off on our climb back up to the crater rim. Oh my our legs were uncooperative and we propelled ourselves up the steep incline with the aid of a stick putting as much weight as possible through our arms.
After a gruelling three hours we reached the crater rim and whilst we were tired the views were again spectacular. We had ascended to a vantage point overlooking a lake in the centre of a mountain range with two active volcanoes in the middle of the lake. The water was clear blue, the lava flow from the last eruption 12 months ago formed a general slop into the lake and the volcanoes themselves were still letting off smoke.
After lunch of a three layered sandwich with egg, beef and salad followed by more coffee and pineapple we set off for a downhill trek to base camp three. We thought going up was hard but sound found that downhill also had a special section on the pain spectrum too.
Once at base camp three we relaxed, read books and awaited dinner. In amongst all this were monkeys. To begin with they observed from a respectful distance then moved to just two meters away from us. Here the leader of the pack was groomed and occasionally a lady monkey would take his fancy and he would have his wicked way. After an hour of the monkeys observing us and we them they began to get braver. They congregated around out camp and began a raiding party to steel our leftover food. The porters were wise to this and matched the monkeys calls with their own should and charged the monkeys. The result was one orange and some left over fruit to the monkeys and some entertainment for us.
Sunday, 17 July 2011
If I believed in heaven
15/7/11
Its 2am, cold dark and we are in a tent. What’s more there is someone shaking it encouraging us to get up for breakfast. Surely this is some form of bad dream. We stumble out of the tent feeling somewhat disorientated as this is NOT NORMAL in the words of James . Anyway a breakfast and coffee wakes us up sufficiently for us to set off up the volcano. The two Swiss guys set off at a lighting pace accompanied by a fit young porter. James, Kevin, Peerman and I opt for a slightly more genital pace. To set the scène its dark, cold and windy. There is a full moon and hundreds of stars. The darkness is interspersed with the occasional head touch of another party but apart from that the only sound is your laboured panting and the sound of gravel slipping under your feet as you walk perilously close to the edge of the crater rim. We have three hours to ascend over 1000 meters and it is at this point we realise this is less rambling and more mountaineering. After 30 minutes of calf sapping walking on gravel James asked Peerman how much further it is to the top. The response of two and a half hours is too much for James and he decides to call it a day. After some discussion it is agreed that James will sit on the mountain until sunrise and then head down the path. We leave him wrapped up warm with a supply of biscuits, some water and a head torch whilst the rest of us continued upwards.
Within a matter of minutes the path levels out and I begin to wonder if James has given up too early. For the next hour the walk is strenuous but manageable then the final assent begins… Until now the ground has been course large gravel and a 45 degree angle. The final assent sees the gravel turn to a sand like texture, the wind pick up and the gradient change to what feels like 80 degrees. Two minutes in and I am panting and beginning to wonder if I would get to the top. The only thing that sustained me was the view. If I believed in heaven I would say this is where it is. I was above the cloud line and felt like I could almost touch the moon. The sky went from black, though blue, then to blue with stars, orange and white where it met the clouds. Every 10 paces (two of which were backwards) I stopped, panted and looked at the sky. After 60 gruelling minutes the end was in sight and we reached the summit ten minutes before sunrise.
Sunrise was truly amazing. In this spot a long way above the clouds we could see for miles. The light was so intense and clear and the views stunning. The volcano crater was slowly illuminated showering it with a whole spectrum of colour. This I felt was a once in a life time sight. Firstly because the weather was so clear and secondly because the was not a cat in hells chance that I would ever walk up that hill again!
After enjoying the sunrise it was time to begin the decent. Only in the day light did we realise just how shear the drops were either side of the crater rim path. Somewhat perturbed we set off and for the first section of the descent we literally skied down the sand. With two sticks (fashioned by the porters the day before) I avoided shooting off the edge and only once fell causing the guide to try and stop me which in turn saw him enable with me on the floor. Only minor damage of two cut knees and a spliced finger and no nurse on hand to help. That said he probably would have told me that it was just a graze and to stop complaining.
On the nurse front James had been left 30 minutes away from the came some hours ago. The plan had been to wait until sunrise before setting off back to the camp. James did wait until the 30 or so walkers had passed him buy over a period of an hour. At the point at which the moon had set and the sun had not come up and all the walkers and therefore the way makers in the form of head torches had passed he decided to begin his decent. Within a matter of seconds he had lost the path and after some time he did return to base camp but not before encountering a snake and nearly falling off the edge!
Upon returning to basecamp I found James curled up in the tent sound asleep a little traumatised but safe never the less. Shortly breakfast was served which was wolfed down with a number of cups of coffee. Realising that it was only 9am it dawned on us that this was not going to be a normal day as having 6 hours of walking under your belt by 9am was quite an achievement. You could say an achievement worthy of a rest but alas the guide had different ideas so by 10 am we found ourselves embarking on a three hour descent into down to the volcano lake.
Having already exerted myself the decent was slow and somewhat painful. Each step required carful probing with the sticks to ensure the ground was solid and then putting most of the weight though my arms I gingerly stepped down. In essence Kevin and I resembled old men. The pain was manageable though a combination of narcotics and will power but what was disconcerting was my muscles refusal to extend or do what they were supposed to do. Is this what old age has in store for me. Is this what mum means by your legs not working properly???
Anyway we successfully arrived at the lake and headed off to the hot springs. If there was a god then he surly designed this place well. Knacker yourself on the walk but be rewarded with soothing natural hot water. God had however not counted on humans turning a beauty spot into something akin to a refugee camp. The area was littered with mounds of rubbish, tents, human excrement and general detritus. The hot springs were served by fast flowing water ensuing they were clean but that was the only saving grace. Having walked so far with the prospect of hot water we decided that so long as we did not drink the water we would be ok. We gamely striped off to our boxer shorts and plunged in. Poor James was wearing a rather skimpy pair of underpants which whilst was pleasing to my eye was somewhat disconcerting for him and ran the risk of offending. That said he was not passing up the prospect of hot water!
After lunch I was so grateful for James’ meticulous planning. Most tourists embark on a two night three day adventure but James had opted for the less common and more expensive 3 night four day package. This meant that we spent the afternoon reclining by the lake looking at the fabulous views whilst the others in our party had a three hour walk up to the volcano rim… a prospect that was somewhat overwhelming!
After a quick nap it was feeding time again and we were served more scrumptious food. As the evening drew in and it became dark we got talking to the guide and swooped life stories albeit glossing over James and my relationship. We found that peerman was a farmer’s child and learned English whilst selling stuff on the beach. He now speaks almost fluent English and passable Italian, manager the trek efficiently and is a fab guide. That said he feels he is getting too old for trekking at 43 and needs to find a different career. We encouraged him to see his language skills and people management experience as a career option and consider working in hospitality. We also discussed the seasonal nature of his work and introduced the concept of saving when there was plenty of money and using this during the winter. Now this sounds condescending but it was a revelation to peerman and in our experience of Asia not the norm. Of the local people we have met it appears that they live for the day and spend whatever they have. This may in part be due to the fact they don’t have very much but also it feels like a cultural approach to life.
Its 2am, cold dark and we are in a tent. What’s more there is someone shaking it encouraging us to get up for breakfast. Surely this is some form of bad dream. We stumble out of the tent feeling somewhat disorientated as this is NOT NORMAL in the words of James . Anyway a breakfast and coffee wakes us up sufficiently for us to set off up the volcano. The two Swiss guys set off at a lighting pace accompanied by a fit young porter. James, Kevin, Peerman and I opt for a slightly more genital pace. To set the scène its dark, cold and windy. There is a full moon and hundreds of stars. The darkness is interspersed with the occasional head touch of another party but apart from that the only sound is your laboured panting and the sound of gravel slipping under your feet as you walk perilously close to the edge of the crater rim. We have three hours to ascend over 1000 meters and it is at this point we realise this is less rambling and more mountaineering. After 30 minutes of calf sapping walking on gravel James asked Peerman how much further it is to the top. The response of two and a half hours is too much for James and he decides to call it a day. After some discussion it is agreed that James will sit on the mountain until sunrise and then head down the path. We leave him wrapped up warm with a supply of biscuits, some water and a head torch whilst the rest of us continued upwards.
Within a matter of minutes the path levels out and I begin to wonder if James has given up too early. For the next hour the walk is strenuous but manageable then the final assent begins… Until now the ground has been course large gravel and a 45 degree angle. The final assent sees the gravel turn to a sand like texture, the wind pick up and the gradient change to what feels like 80 degrees. Two minutes in and I am panting and beginning to wonder if I would get to the top. The only thing that sustained me was the view. If I believed in heaven I would say this is where it is. I was above the cloud line and felt like I could almost touch the moon. The sky went from black, though blue, then to blue with stars, orange and white where it met the clouds. Every 10 paces (two of which were backwards) I stopped, panted and looked at the sky. After 60 gruelling minutes the end was in sight and we reached the summit ten minutes before sunrise.
Sunrise was truly amazing. In this spot a long way above the clouds we could see for miles. The light was so intense and clear and the views stunning. The volcano crater was slowly illuminated showering it with a whole spectrum of colour. This I felt was a once in a life time sight. Firstly because the weather was so clear and secondly because the was not a cat in hells chance that I would ever walk up that hill again!
After enjoying the sunrise it was time to begin the decent. Only in the day light did we realise just how shear the drops were either side of the crater rim path. Somewhat perturbed we set off and for the first section of the descent we literally skied down the sand. With two sticks (fashioned by the porters the day before) I avoided shooting off the edge and only once fell causing the guide to try and stop me which in turn saw him enable with me on the floor. Only minor damage of two cut knees and a spliced finger and no nurse on hand to help. That said he probably would have told me that it was just a graze and to stop complaining.
On the nurse front James had been left 30 minutes away from the came some hours ago. The plan had been to wait until sunrise before setting off back to the camp. James did wait until the 30 or so walkers had passed him buy over a period of an hour. At the point at which the moon had set and the sun had not come up and all the walkers and therefore the way makers in the form of head torches had passed he decided to begin his decent. Within a matter of seconds he had lost the path and after some time he did return to base camp but not before encountering a snake and nearly falling off the edge!
Upon returning to basecamp I found James curled up in the tent sound asleep a little traumatised but safe never the less. Shortly breakfast was served which was wolfed down with a number of cups of coffee. Realising that it was only 9am it dawned on us that this was not going to be a normal day as having 6 hours of walking under your belt by 9am was quite an achievement. You could say an achievement worthy of a rest but alas the guide had different ideas so by 10 am we found ourselves embarking on a three hour descent into down to the volcano lake.
Having already exerted myself the decent was slow and somewhat painful. Each step required carful probing with the sticks to ensure the ground was solid and then putting most of the weight though my arms I gingerly stepped down. In essence Kevin and I resembled old men. The pain was manageable though a combination of narcotics and will power but what was disconcerting was my muscles refusal to extend or do what they were supposed to do. Is this what old age has in store for me. Is this what mum means by your legs not working properly???
Anyway we successfully arrived at the lake and headed off to the hot springs. If there was a god then he surly designed this place well. Knacker yourself on the walk but be rewarded with soothing natural hot water. God had however not counted on humans turning a beauty spot into something akin to a refugee camp. The area was littered with mounds of rubbish, tents, human excrement and general detritus. The hot springs were served by fast flowing water ensuing they were clean but that was the only saving grace. Having walked so far with the prospect of hot water we decided that so long as we did not drink the water we would be ok. We gamely striped off to our boxer shorts and plunged in. Poor James was wearing a rather skimpy pair of underpants which whilst was pleasing to my eye was somewhat disconcerting for him and ran the risk of offending. That said he was not passing up the prospect of hot water!
After lunch I was so grateful for James’ meticulous planning. Most tourists embark on a two night three day adventure but James had opted for the less common and more expensive 3 night four day package. This meant that we spent the afternoon reclining by the lake looking at the fabulous views whilst the others in our party had a three hour walk up to the volcano rim… a prospect that was somewhat overwhelming!
After a quick nap it was feeding time again and we were served more scrumptious food. As the evening drew in and it became dark we got talking to the guide and swooped life stories albeit glossing over James and my relationship. We found that peerman was a farmer’s child and learned English whilst selling stuff on the beach. He now speaks almost fluent English and passable Italian, manager the trek efficiently and is a fab guide. That said he feels he is getting too old for trekking at 43 and needs to find a different career. We encouraged him to see his language skills and people management experience as a career option and consider working in hospitality. We also discussed the seasonal nature of his work and introduced the concept of saving when there was plenty of money and using this during the winter. Now this sounds condescending but it was a revelation to peerman and in our experience of Asia not the norm. Of the local people we have met it appears that they live for the day and spend whatever they have. This may in part be due to the fact they don’t have very much but also it feels like a cultural approach to life.
Saturday, 16 July 2011
A big adventure
14/7/11
When sitting on the sofa in the relaxing cocoon of Atwood road James booked a trek up a volcano. The trek would take place over four days and three nights and involve camping… not the normal environ for a Chimp. Oh my its 5 am and the mini bus is here to pick us up. The sofa booking seems like a distant memory and we have a mammoth adventure ahead of us…
After a few hours we arrive at the at the starting point 1110m above sea level- our task to climb to the summit at 3726m within 24 hours. Then walk down from the crater rim to the huge lake that has been formed around the still active volcano. Walk back up to the rim and then back to the car. Fortunately James had booked a porter to carry his bag. I had wanted to save money so opted to carry my own luggage that said some things may have slipped into James bag… well actually most of my stuff had. A wise decision we would come to learn.
We met our guide perman the other customers. Two Swiss guys and an Irishman called Kevin. We were also to be accompanied by a small army of porters- 6 in all. These guys were super human carrying all the tents, food, James bag and water we would need for four days. The method of carrying these items was to strap everything to a bamboo pole and rest 20-30kg on your shoulder. I could not even lift the bloody poll let alone get it on my shoulder, balance it let alone walk up a volcano in flip-flops. The porters on the other hand did not appear to break a sweat and would frequently overtake us during our four days.
After a quick breakfast we set off for the first leg in our journey. A 6 hour uphill walk to the crater rim some 2640m above sea level. After 30 minutes Kevin twisted his ankle but never the less carried on with the aid of an ankle support that I lent him. Plodding in the heat we began to wonder if we had bitten off more than we could chew. This was not going to be a stole in the park but a test of endurance. Our guide made it somewhat easier by stopping every hour to feed us. A pack of biscuits would appear and regardless of our hunger levels he would offer them around instantly until they were all eaten. He then enquire what we would like to eat for lunch. Not being accustomed to having a choice and expecting the food to be somewhat limited to rice our expectations were not high. Peerman then reeled off the options. Rice with chicken, spaghetti, beef sandwiches, noodle soup. Rather surprised to have an option there was a general agreement that we would eat anything. This did not appear to meet the needs of perman who told us we had to ask for what we wanted as at the end of the day it was our money the porters were carrying up the hill in the form of all the food that the company had sent along. The trek we decided may be hard but we would not go hungry and this assumption was confirmed at lunch time when the porters rustled up noodle soup, fresh coffee, fresh pineapple and bottle water.
After 5 hours of walking we arrived at the crater rim. The potters who had stayed behind to clean up after lunch had overtaken us, set up the tents and were cooking dinner by the time we arrived. After another sumptuous dinner we headed to bed at the rather early hour of 7pm. One may think this a little early but it was dark and we were to be waken at 2am so we could walk up to the volcano summit for sun rise!
When sitting on the sofa in the relaxing cocoon of Atwood road James booked a trek up a volcano. The trek would take place over four days and three nights and involve camping… not the normal environ for a Chimp. Oh my its 5 am and the mini bus is here to pick us up. The sofa booking seems like a distant memory and we have a mammoth adventure ahead of us…
After a few hours we arrive at the at the starting point 1110m above sea level- our task to climb to the summit at 3726m within 24 hours. Then walk down from the crater rim to the huge lake that has been formed around the still active volcano. Walk back up to the rim and then back to the car. Fortunately James had booked a porter to carry his bag. I had wanted to save money so opted to carry my own luggage that said some things may have slipped into James bag… well actually most of my stuff had. A wise decision we would come to learn.
We met our guide perman the other customers. Two Swiss guys and an Irishman called Kevin. We were also to be accompanied by a small army of porters- 6 in all. These guys were super human carrying all the tents, food, James bag and water we would need for four days. The method of carrying these items was to strap everything to a bamboo pole and rest 20-30kg on your shoulder. I could not even lift the bloody poll let alone get it on my shoulder, balance it let alone walk up a volcano in flip-flops. The porters on the other hand did not appear to break a sweat and would frequently overtake us during our four days.
After a quick breakfast we set off for the first leg in our journey. A 6 hour uphill walk to the crater rim some 2640m above sea level. After 30 minutes Kevin twisted his ankle but never the less carried on with the aid of an ankle support that I lent him. Plodding in the heat we began to wonder if we had bitten off more than we could chew. This was not going to be a stole in the park but a test of endurance. Our guide made it somewhat easier by stopping every hour to feed us. A pack of biscuits would appear and regardless of our hunger levels he would offer them around instantly until they were all eaten. He then enquire what we would like to eat for lunch. Not being accustomed to having a choice and expecting the food to be somewhat limited to rice our expectations were not high. Peerman then reeled off the options. Rice with chicken, spaghetti, beef sandwiches, noodle soup. Rather surprised to have an option there was a general agreement that we would eat anything. This did not appear to meet the needs of perman who told us we had to ask for what we wanted as at the end of the day it was our money the porters were carrying up the hill in the form of all the food that the company had sent along. The trek we decided may be hard but we would not go hungry and this assumption was confirmed at lunch time when the porters rustled up noodle soup, fresh coffee, fresh pineapple and bottle water.
After 5 hours of walking we arrived at the crater rim. The potters who had stayed behind to clean up after lunch had overtaken us, set up the tents and were cooking dinner by the time we arrived. After another sumptuous dinner we headed to bed at the rather early hour of 7pm. One may think this a little early but it was dark and we were to be waken at 2am so we could walk up to the volcano summit for sun rise!
Monkeys and Diving
12/7/11
We hired a moped and set off on our own tour of the island. After stopping for 2 litres of fuel we realised just how expensive fuel is in the UK… 30p here versus 138 in the UK. After that revelation we set off with gusto through the streets of Lombok before heading up a long winding road into the hills. We had been told about monkey mountain but our crappy map did not show it. We needed have worried as we were left in no doubt by the sheer number of monkeys sitting by the side of the road that we had arrived. The monkeys were innumerate and so disinterested in passing cars. It was like we were just passing though there living room. They got on with monkey life- grooming, eating, caring for the babies and having sex. The cars and mopeds were no distraction at all. That said we did not try to interact with the monkeys as they had rather large teeth and looked like they may not be friendly!
Later we stopped on a stretch of deserted beech for an afternoon of reading. I was dispatched to find food but failed to rustle up anything more exciting than a bag of crisp and some pop. Street food is less in abundance here. Healthy lunch was not but James was happy to receive a junk food offering!
13/7/11
7am and we had planned to go diving but there is always a problem with plans and this time it was James and a cold he had picked up. Normally not the end of the world but in diving terms it means you cannot regulate your ears. As such I left James at the hotel and set off for an adventure. Normally the roles are revered as I have often stayed behind whilst James went diving so I was a little apprehensive setting off on my own. .. I needn’t have been!
The dive was a shark point, a large coral reef. This alone was spectacular with many colours to keep me entertained. But it got better when the dive leader pointed out a turtle nestling amongst the coral. WOW a real life turtle but wait there were four more. One swam past my face and the others just sat there completely unperturbed by the four divers staring at them intently. WOW WOW WOW. Until now diving had been a pleasurable activity now it had become an amazing underwater adventure!
I felt very sad that James had not seen this so resolved to bring James to the island. But this would mean changing the plans not something James likes to do! That said my excitement persuaded him that a change of plans would be agreeable. This precipitated a mad dash to the travel agents to change out boat tickets. As we were due to head up a volcano the next morning we did not have time to book accommodation so agreed that we would find accommodation upon arrival. Now for those of you who know how we travel this is a radical departure from the norm for which I am somewhat terrified as what I find will surly fail to match James exacting standards. Only time will tell!!!
We hired a moped and set off on our own tour of the island. After stopping for 2 litres of fuel we realised just how expensive fuel is in the UK… 30p here versus 138 in the UK. After that revelation we set off with gusto through the streets of Lombok before heading up a long winding road into the hills. We had been told about monkey mountain but our crappy map did not show it. We needed have worried as we were left in no doubt by the sheer number of monkeys sitting by the side of the road that we had arrived. The monkeys were innumerate and so disinterested in passing cars. It was like we were just passing though there living room. They got on with monkey life- grooming, eating, caring for the babies and having sex. The cars and mopeds were no distraction at all. That said we did not try to interact with the monkeys as they had rather large teeth and looked like they may not be friendly!
Later we stopped on a stretch of deserted beech for an afternoon of reading. I was dispatched to find food but failed to rustle up anything more exciting than a bag of crisp and some pop. Street food is less in abundance here. Healthy lunch was not but James was happy to receive a junk food offering!
13/7/11
7am and we had planned to go diving but there is always a problem with plans and this time it was James and a cold he had picked up. Normally not the end of the world but in diving terms it means you cannot regulate your ears. As such I left James at the hotel and set off for an adventure. Normally the roles are revered as I have often stayed behind whilst James went diving so I was a little apprehensive setting off on my own. .. I needn’t have been!
The dive was a shark point, a large coral reef. This alone was spectacular with many colours to keep me entertained. But it got better when the dive leader pointed out a turtle nestling amongst the coral. WOW a real life turtle but wait there were four more. One swam past my face and the others just sat there completely unperturbed by the four divers staring at them intently. WOW WOW WOW. Until now diving had been a pleasurable activity now it had become an amazing underwater adventure!
I felt very sad that James had not seen this so resolved to bring James to the island. But this would mean changing the plans not something James likes to do! That said my excitement persuaded him that a change of plans would be agreeable. This precipitated a mad dash to the travel agents to change out boat tickets. As we were due to head up a volcano the next morning we did not have time to book accommodation so agreed that we would find accommodation upon arrival. Now for those of you who know how we travel this is a radical departure from the norm for which I am somewhat terrified as what I find will surly fail to match James exacting standards. Only time will tell!!!
Monday, 11 July 2011
Why are we so relaxed....Caral and Paul that's why
11/7/11
Waking at 5am is somewhat of a shock to the system but we pull ourselves out of bed and are waiting for our pick up by 5.45. At 615 there is no sign so out comes the ipod, we connect to ckype and call the company -the wonders of skype! The company are not worried and tell us that our villa is difficult to find but to be patient. Eventually we are picked up, taken to a small bus station and transferred onto a bigger bus. We then trundle down to the port, wait around for an hour, jump on a public ferry for 4 hours, back on a minibus and arrive at our accommodation at 4pm. Wow where did that day go?
Whilst on the move I had an excess of time and a shortage of things to do so I took to pondering the joys travel. Worries zero, hassle moderate in the form of touts but noting in comparison to being at home, food fabulous although some creature comforts are missed, income- limited but we are managing, on average, on 68 quid a day between us. Stress- none existent. Luxuries now take the form of breakfast overlooking the beach as opposed to a new pair of shoes but that suits me fine as I don’t need to go shopping.
It also occurred to me that this is by far the most relaxed that we have been in early July for over 10 years. Why do I pick early July? Well yes it is early July now but more importantly this is the time of year we check students in and out. And where are we… Indonesia sitting overlooking the beach. So with something that rules our Julys in any normal year how have we sidestepped this responsibility? Carol property services supported by Paul maintenance is the answer. Without Carol organising everything, keeping the tenants in check (she’s more scary than me but I like this. Also the tenants show her more body parts than me- presumably as they see here like a mum but never the less none of them have ever showed me there bum in 10 years and I would enjoy that. After 5 months carols has had this… oh life is unfair!) , keeping the books in order, dealing with the phone calls, dealing with builders and everything else our trip would be rather harder and the services the tenants receive far poorer. Paul had also had a part to play making sure the properties are kept up to scratch. As always he excels in the painting, decorating and general maintenance that student houses require. Over that last few days they have been very busy with the checkout, cleaning, maintenance and check in at Main Street.
So in short we are so grateful to both Carol and Paul for looking after the business whilst we are away.
Waking at 5am is somewhat of a shock to the system but we pull ourselves out of bed and are waiting for our pick up by 5.45. At 615 there is no sign so out comes the ipod, we connect to ckype and call the company -the wonders of skype! The company are not worried and tell us that our villa is difficult to find but to be patient. Eventually we are picked up, taken to a small bus station and transferred onto a bigger bus. We then trundle down to the port, wait around for an hour, jump on a public ferry for 4 hours, back on a minibus and arrive at our accommodation at 4pm. Wow where did that day go?
Whilst on the move I had an excess of time and a shortage of things to do so I took to pondering the joys travel. Worries zero, hassle moderate in the form of touts but noting in comparison to being at home, food fabulous although some creature comforts are missed, income- limited but we are managing, on average, on 68 quid a day between us. Stress- none existent. Luxuries now take the form of breakfast overlooking the beach as opposed to a new pair of shoes but that suits me fine as I don’t need to go shopping.
It also occurred to me that this is by far the most relaxed that we have been in early July for over 10 years. Why do I pick early July? Well yes it is early July now but more importantly this is the time of year we check students in and out. And where are we… Indonesia sitting overlooking the beach. So with something that rules our Julys in any normal year how have we sidestepped this responsibility? Carol property services supported by Paul maintenance is the answer. Without Carol organising everything, keeping the tenants in check (she’s more scary than me but I like this. Also the tenants show her more body parts than me- presumably as they see here like a mum but never the less none of them have ever showed me there bum in 10 years and I would enjoy that. After 5 months carols has had this… oh life is unfair!) , keeping the books in order, dealing with the phone calls, dealing with builders and everything else our trip would be rather harder and the services the tenants receive far poorer. Paul had also had a part to play making sure the properties are kept up to scratch. As always he excels in the painting, decorating and general maintenance that student houses require. Over that last few days they have been very busy with the checkout, cleaning, maintenance and check in at Main Street.
So in short we are so grateful to both Carol and Paul for looking after the business whilst we are away.
Saturday, 9 July 2011
The memory of mums visit lives on!
10/7/11
The memory of mums visit lives on! Exploring the fridge hoping to source lunch and dinner we found we were in luck. Street food was at least 24 hours away (not that it’s bad) as there was Parma ham and goats cheese for lunch followed by omelettes, salad and a glut of cheese for dinner… a travellers fantasy!
More down to earth was the prospect of leaving our fabulous accommodation. Leaving always means one thing… packing but even that was not too torturous as we had offloaded a sizable number of things to the Hilly freight service for transportation to the UK. No longer did I need my main rucksack and two supplementary day sacks to transport our wares. That said we soon got back into traveller mode spending time updating the budget and buying cheap public ferry tickets for our onward travel. No more private drivers and sleek boats for us!
As any good travelers would we spent the day enjoying the facilities. Lounging in the pool, bathing in the full sized yes FULL sized bath and pottering around. Reality did hit though when the owner came to collect his money for our extra days stay. James noticed that we had been charged for the internet and despite it being not too expensive we were surprised as there was no mention of this on the website or booking form (we even showed him his own website). Furthermore the bill was out by 100,000rp. The owner was somewhat surprised at our eagle eyes and said no one had ever questioned the bill. Clearly he had not met a Yorkshirman before!
The memory of mums visit lives on! Exploring the fridge hoping to source lunch and dinner we found we were in luck. Street food was at least 24 hours away (not that it’s bad) as there was Parma ham and goats cheese for lunch followed by omelettes, salad and a glut of cheese for dinner… a travellers fantasy!
More down to earth was the prospect of leaving our fabulous accommodation. Leaving always means one thing… packing but even that was not too torturous as we had offloaded a sizable number of things to the Hilly freight service for transportation to the UK. No longer did I need my main rucksack and two supplementary day sacks to transport our wares. That said we soon got back into traveller mode spending time updating the budget and buying cheap public ferry tickets for our onward travel. No more private drivers and sleek boats for us!
As any good travelers would we spent the day enjoying the facilities. Lounging in the pool, bathing in the full sized yes FULL sized bath and pottering around. Reality did hit though when the owner came to collect his money for our extra days stay. James noticed that we had been charged for the internet and despite it being not too expensive we were surprised as there was no mention of this on the website or booking form (we even showed him his own website). Furthermore the bill was out by 100,000rp. The owner was somewhat surprised at our eagle eyes and said no one had ever questioned the bill. Clearly he had not met a Yorkshirman before!
Friday, 8 July 2011
Mum and a decade!
8/7/11
After 10 days mum has left for the return trip to Blighty and I now take up the blog once more and return to the relative life of traveller poverty. For not only was it lovely to have mums company (more on that later) she also brought along her flexible friend! So how does that translate into practical changes for the backpacker types?
• For the first time in 4 months James did not check for bed bugs
• We did not have to share accommodation with an assortment of smelly strangers
• Housekeeping services came every day not every year
• Everything worked, the electricity stayed on ALL day and toilet paper was provided!
• We ate and drank with gay abandon not once taking out a pen and paper to tally up
• We had a private pool that a) we were allowed to used, b) was clean and c) we weren’t working there!
• We traded in lethal communal transport for a private driver with an air conditioned car
• Towels were provided daily and no extra charge
• We had home comforts of cheddar cheese, newspapers, Pimms and a TV that showed Wimbledon. A little slice of Briton in our Bali living room!
Ok so we enjoyed the life of luxury but we could do that in the UK so what really made the last ten days so fabulous was mum being with us. It is always nice to see a parent after a period of absence but this was even more special as it was the first time in several years that we could turn off the phone, relax and not worry about dad. It was also the first time since his funeral that we could sit and reminisce. Remembering was lovely if not a little tear inducing so as Amy would say there were rather a lot of “soppy pathetic cuddling going on”. It was also nice to see that mum was coping and “getting on with things” in true Hilly style. That said it was clear from our conversations over the G&T’s that many people in Sedbergh had been there for her. Mum had gained much support from the daily walks with Sarah, weekly diners before band with Carol and the daily visit to collect the dog and catch up by Elspeth. All of a sudden being on the other side of the world did not seem too bad!
Now as you can imagine there was more activity than reminiscing and as James commented “Luke has a new play mate so I can have 10 days of respite.” I don’t know what h means! Every other day we would “do something” by which we mean we left the property early and explored. I wont recount the last 10 days as the guest editor provided daily missives thought her stay. On the other days we fell into a pattern of getting up lateish (not James late) but late for us two and having breakfast on the patio. Then as it was too hot, well that was our excuse anyway we would sit and read. Soon enough it would be lunch time and I would whip up a light lunch which was inevitably a large lunch as once I started there was no stopping me- oh the joys of having a kitchen! Next, nap time as our day had been exhausting, then more reading, a swim in the pool and then out for a drink and or dinner by the beech.
Predictably the ten days whizzed by and soon it was time for mum to head to the airport for a journey she described as “ completely mad if you were coming for a two week holiday. I would never come unless I had a reason too”- by which we can read it’s too far away, I will be tired when I get home and I have to sit still for two long! Anyone see similarities between us two???
So with mum gone did we decided to return to cheap living or did we have the taste of the better life? You guessed it we could not break the habit so signed up for another two nights in the fabulous villa! Our excuse was that today marked 10 years since we first got together. WOW how did that happen? It’s extremely nice and a source of amazement that 10 years has passed. So with this excuse we headed for a massage (not in a upmarket spa mind you- I am not that profligate!), then to the supermarket for some huge steaks and a bottle of expensive wine (don’t worry not gone mad and bought a vintage bottle- all wine is expensive here), some packet pepper sauce (just being lazy) and fresh potatoes (craving chips and anything that is not rice). Being equipped for a night in we locked the doors, cooked a meal and reclined on the sofa. Total bliss!
After 10 days mum has left for the return trip to Blighty and I now take up the blog once more and return to the relative life of traveller poverty. For not only was it lovely to have mums company (more on that later) she also brought along her flexible friend! So how does that translate into practical changes for the backpacker types?
• For the first time in 4 months James did not check for bed bugs
• We did not have to share accommodation with an assortment of smelly strangers
• Housekeeping services came every day not every year
• Everything worked, the electricity stayed on ALL day and toilet paper was provided!
• We ate and drank with gay abandon not once taking out a pen and paper to tally up
• We had a private pool that a) we were allowed to used, b) was clean and c) we weren’t working there!
• We traded in lethal communal transport for a private driver with an air conditioned car
• Towels were provided daily and no extra charge
• We had home comforts of cheddar cheese, newspapers, Pimms and a TV that showed Wimbledon. A little slice of Briton in our Bali living room!
Ok so we enjoyed the life of luxury but we could do that in the UK so what really made the last ten days so fabulous was mum being with us. It is always nice to see a parent after a period of absence but this was even more special as it was the first time in several years that we could turn off the phone, relax and not worry about dad. It was also the first time since his funeral that we could sit and reminisce. Remembering was lovely if not a little tear inducing so as Amy would say there were rather a lot of “soppy pathetic cuddling going on”. It was also nice to see that mum was coping and “getting on with things” in true Hilly style. That said it was clear from our conversations over the G&T’s that many people in Sedbergh had been there for her. Mum had gained much support from the daily walks with Sarah, weekly diners before band with Carol and the daily visit to collect the dog and catch up by Elspeth. All of a sudden being on the other side of the world did not seem too bad!
Now as you can imagine there was more activity than reminiscing and as James commented “Luke has a new play mate so I can have 10 days of respite.” I don’t know what h means! Every other day we would “do something” by which we mean we left the property early and explored. I wont recount the last 10 days as the guest editor provided daily missives thought her stay. On the other days we fell into a pattern of getting up lateish (not James late) but late for us two and having breakfast on the patio. Then as it was too hot, well that was our excuse anyway we would sit and read. Soon enough it would be lunch time and I would whip up a light lunch which was inevitably a large lunch as once I started there was no stopping me- oh the joys of having a kitchen! Next, nap time as our day had been exhausting, then more reading, a swim in the pool and then out for a drink and or dinner by the beech.
Predictably the ten days whizzed by and soon it was time for mum to head to the airport for a journey she described as “ completely mad if you were coming for a two week holiday. I would never come unless I had a reason too”- by which we can read it’s too far away, I will be tired when I get home and I have to sit still for two long! Anyone see similarities between us two???
So with mum gone did we decided to return to cheap living or did we have the taste of the better life? You guessed it we could not break the habit so signed up for another two nights in the fabulous villa! Our excuse was that today marked 10 years since we first got together. WOW how did that happen? It’s extremely nice and a source of amazement that 10 years has passed. So with this excuse we headed for a massage (not in a upmarket spa mind you- I am not that profligate!), then to the supermarket for some huge steaks and a bottle of expensive wine (don’t worry not gone mad and bought a vintage bottle- all wine is expensive here), some packet pepper sauce (just being lazy) and fresh potatoes (craving chips and anything that is not rice). Being equipped for a night in we locked the doors, cooked a meal and reclined on the sofa. Total bliss!
Thursday, 7 July 2011
Some describe it as music
7th July Guest editor for the final time: Dr H C Hodge the one and only!
A few days ago we were planning what we should so on my last day here (Luke and I have to be organised and plan our time even on holiday!). The boys were keen on me having an elephant ride - their 3 days looking after elephants had caused them to have an attachment to the creatures. Whilst not dismissing this idea I decided that I would prefer to go out on a boat and go snorkelling, kayaking and any other water related activity which I am still able to have a go at. Consequently we duly booked to go on a day cruise on the Bali Fun Ship to Lembongan Island approximately 1 and a half hour boat trip from Bali. Having booked it I wondered if I was completely crazy as it would mean a day out in the sun – by now you will have gathered that this presents a problem to me – or at least to my skin.
Oh well too late now. Anyway this morning comes and joy of joys - for me at least - it is overcast and it is actually raining a tiny tiny bit – hoorah I exclaim. Poor James – this presents a double whamee – we were being picked up at 7.45am (James doesn’t do mornings especially on holiday) and there is no sun.
Apart from the ever present noise (some describe it as music) the boat was great and moored at a platform just off Lembongan. It was still overcast thank goodness so we donned our snorkels and launched ourselves from the boat. It was fantastic – beautiful coloured coral and strikingly patterned fish in great numbers swimming about – we even saw a small shark which the boys had not seen anywhere else. It was just a fantastic experience. Luke and I followed it up by going on a glass bottomed boat to get another sight of the coral and the fish – amazing.
After this we went out on a couple of Kayaks – a double one with Luke and me and James attempting to paddle a single one – a disaster – he kept falling in – Luke swopped over and although did better still had problems – we decided it was a kids size one. However once underway we paddled towards the shore where there was a cave entrance – the intrepid explorers entered and very bravely continued round the bend to find it was a cull de sac – but a lovely one at that.
After all this exertion we returned to the boat for lunch which turned out to be very good – they had cooked and prepared it all on the boat. After lunch we were taken onto the island and offered a village tour which we declined opting instead for a pleasant café where we sipped iced coffee, fruit juices and admired the view – very relaxing. By the sun had decided to appear and was of course very hot in the middle of the day – yes you have guessed it – despite taking anti histamines every day and topping them up with extra doses – the dreaded heat rashes duly appeared – oh well it was my last day and the steroid cream came into action on return to the villa.
Well I have come to the end - so Luke will resume his blogging to you all – he said he has enjoyed his rest from doing it – but the amusing observations from his travels will resume from tomorrow. I have had a wonderful 10 days with them both and look forward to being reunited with them in New Zealand in December – over and out.
A few days ago we were planning what we should so on my last day here (Luke and I have to be organised and plan our time even on holiday!). The boys were keen on me having an elephant ride - their 3 days looking after elephants had caused them to have an attachment to the creatures. Whilst not dismissing this idea I decided that I would prefer to go out on a boat and go snorkelling, kayaking and any other water related activity which I am still able to have a go at. Consequently we duly booked to go on a day cruise on the Bali Fun Ship to Lembongan Island approximately 1 and a half hour boat trip from Bali. Having booked it I wondered if I was completely crazy as it would mean a day out in the sun – by now you will have gathered that this presents a problem to me – or at least to my skin.
Oh well too late now. Anyway this morning comes and joy of joys - for me at least - it is overcast and it is actually raining a tiny tiny bit – hoorah I exclaim. Poor James – this presents a double whamee – we were being picked up at 7.45am (James doesn’t do mornings especially on holiday) and there is no sun.
Apart from the ever present noise (some describe it as music) the boat was great and moored at a platform just off Lembongan. It was still overcast thank goodness so we donned our snorkels and launched ourselves from the boat. It was fantastic – beautiful coloured coral and strikingly patterned fish in great numbers swimming about – we even saw a small shark which the boys had not seen anywhere else. It was just a fantastic experience. Luke and I followed it up by going on a glass bottomed boat to get another sight of the coral and the fish – amazing.
After this we went out on a couple of Kayaks – a double one with Luke and me and James attempting to paddle a single one – a disaster – he kept falling in – Luke swopped over and although did better still had problems – we decided it was a kids size one. However once underway we paddled towards the shore where there was a cave entrance – the intrepid explorers entered and very bravely continued round the bend to find it was a cull de sac – but a lovely one at that.
After all this exertion we returned to the boat for lunch which turned out to be very good – they had cooked and prepared it all on the boat. After lunch we were taken onto the island and offered a village tour which we declined opting instead for a pleasant café where we sipped iced coffee, fruit juices and admired the view – very relaxing. By the sun had decided to appear and was of course very hot in the middle of the day – yes you have guessed it – despite taking anti histamines every day and topping them up with extra doses – the dreaded heat rashes duly appeared – oh well it was my last day and the steroid cream came into action on return to the villa.
Well I have come to the end - so Luke will resume his blogging to you all – he said he has enjoyed his rest from doing it – but the amusing observations from his travels will resume from tomorrow. I have had a wonderful 10 days with them both and look forward to being reunited with them in New Zealand in December – over and out.
Wednesday, 6 July 2011
Kites & kebabs
6th July Guest Editor: Hilary Hodge
Another relaxing day – Luke popped out when he got up to see how the days celebrations were progressing and took a few photos of the offerings and activities. James emerged at a relatively early stage and spent some time organising the next leg of their marathon trip - spending the next 3 weeks visiting various Indonisian islands until they fly to Australia on the 1st August. I spent some time catching up on the backlog of my visiting editor duties. One observation I keep forgetting to mention is the sale and flying of multi coloured kites – those who have seen the film the Kite Runners will understand the reference. Those who haven’t seen the film I would highly recommend it.
After another Luke snack lunch and nap, a relaxing time reading and a swim in the pool we wandered down for a beach side drink before dinner. Singapore slings were the feature of the evening as Luke and James had missed out on them when they were staying in Singapore. We then strolled back to the villa.
Luke had decided to have a BBQ, the problem being that despite having coconut bark to help the charcoal to catch light nothing much seemed to be happening. Always being resourceful he somehow opened a lighter only to find it was filled with gas and not fuel so that was no good. His next remark was ‘you know at Xmas brandy is poured over the Xmas pudding – do you think gin would have the same effect?’ So it was that Bombay Sapphire gin was used to give life to Luke’s BBQ. The kebabs did start the process of cooking on said BBQ but the surrounding hordes started to get fractious as to how long they were having to wait for their food so more conventional means were used to finish them off. Anyway however the food was cooked we all enjoyed a good meal.
Another relaxing day – Luke popped out when he got up to see how the days celebrations were progressing and took a few photos of the offerings and activities. James emerged at a relatively early stage and spent some time organising the next leg of their marathon trip - spending the next 3 weeks visiting various Indonisian islands until they fly to Australia on the 1st August. I spent some time catching up on the backlog of my visiting editor duties. One observation I keep forgetting to mention is the sale and flying of multi coloured kites – those who have seen the film the Kite Runners will understand the reference. Those who haven’t seen the film I would highly recommend it.
After another Luke snack lunch and nap, a relaxing time reading and a swim in the pool we wandered down for a beach side drink before dinner. Singapore slings were the feature of the evening as Luke and James had missed out on them when they were staying in Singapore. We then strolled back to the villa.
Luke had decided to have a BBQ, the problem being that despite having coconut bark to help the charcoal to catch light nothing much seemed to be happening. Always being resourceful he somehow opened a lighter only to find it was filled with gas and not fuel so that was no good. His next remark was ‘you know at Xmas brandy is poured over the Xmas pudding – do you think gin would have the same effect?’ So it was that Bombay Sapphire gin was used to give life to Luke’s BBQ. The kebabs did start the process of cooking on said BBQ but the surrounding hordes started to get fractious as to how long they were having to wait for their food so more conventional means were used to finish them off. Anyway however the food was cooked we all enjoyed a good meal.
Tuesday, 5 July 2011
Hillys history lesson
5th July Guest Editor: Hilary Hodge
It must be the anti- histamines I am taking to keep the allergic reaction to the sun at bay that is causing all this sleeping in – despite an alcohol free day yesterday and an early night I still didn’t wake up until nearly 10am. James has had an upset stomach during the night so he decides he isn’t feeling up to coming out – a shame as Katut – our driver – has kindly invited us to his home to have lunch with him and his family.
Tomorrow is a big Bali Hindu celebration called Galungan. This celebrates the coming of the gods and the ancestral spirits to earth to dwell again in the homes of their descendants. The festivities are characterized by offerings, dances and new clothes. The ancestors must be suitably entertained and welcomed, and prayers and offerings must be made for them. In their terms it is equivalent to our Xmas so everyone is busily preparing for tomorrow. Outside each house is placed a very long bamboo pole which curves over at the top at about 6 metres high and the pole is decorated with all sorts of shapes and colours – equivalent to us decorating Xmas trees. Great preparations go into making the offerings to the gods. Katut’s wife showed us what she had made – it is difficult to describe – but there were about 20 - 30 small offerings consisting of a little basket of flowers lying on banana leaves, to which she had added a variety of articles including a coin, a few rice grains, a button, a few grass cuttings, peanuts and so on. In addition to these there were about half a dozen larger plates with fruit, cakes, biscuits and local delicacies. These are placed on the various temples in their community which are numerous – they even have their own temple in their garden.
Anyway we sat on their veranda and had lunch with Katut, his wife, his 19 year old daughter and 12 year old son. His wife kept apologising for their house, the dirt and anything else she could think of – oh dear my campaign to stop women apologising all the time has now spread to Bali. Luke suggested to Katut that he needed an entry on Trip Advisor which he and James use to find out which places to go to, good accommodation and people to use for various services. Using Katut’s daughters computer – she is studying informatics at university paid for by a variety of relatives – Luke drew up a profile for Katut which James will put on Trip Advisor for him. They felt confident enough to show us round their house which is pretty basic and Katut continues to build it when he has no customers to drive around.
After this we set off for the butterfly park which consists of a very peaceful garden with netting over the top to stop the butterflies escaping. The range of size, colour and patterning of the butterflies is stunning. We were then shown the collection of chrysalises and some newly emerged butterflies which can’t fly for the first few hours. These were placed on your hand and body for you to take photos. After this we walked through a dark tunnel where there were displays of a variety of insects, beetles and scorpion - housed in glass cages I hasten to add. The final display was of stick insect type creatures which again were placed on Luke – I declined this experience.
The next visit was up to the Batukau Temple which was in a beautiful setting against the Batukau mountain with green luxurious forests all around. We again had to put on a sarong and were then accompanied by Katut around the temple – we were amongst only a handful of other tourists - in fact I’ve had to ask Luke whether or not we actually saw anyone else. The temple turned out to be a hive of industry with great crowds of local men and women preparing for the next days celebrations and the religious leaders preparing the worship areas. In one of the villages on the way up a pig had been led across the road in front of us and into a cart attached to the back of a motorbike – the reason for its journey now became obvious!
Katut then took us across country – if you think some of our roads are narrow and potholed then Bali beats them hands down. The scenery was wonderful with vast swathes of rice terraces, forests and the mountain in the background. We went through village after village with the preparations for the celebrations going on in each one of them. The down side to all this is that it took rather a long time to get back to the villa – but when we did we found James feeling a good deal better. I sat with a gin and tonic, Luke just turned out a tasty omelette, then we reminisced about Colin and after a while we went off to bed.
It must be the anti- histamines I am taking to keep the allergic reaction to the sun at bay that is causing all this sleeping in – despite an alcohol free day yesterday and an early night I still didn’t wake up until nearly 10am. James has had an upset stomach during the night so he decides he isn’t feeling up to coming out – a shame as Katut – our driver – has kindly invited us to his home to have lunch with him and his family.
Tomorrow is a big Bali Hindu celebration called Galungan. This celebrates the coming of the gods and the ancestral spirits to earth to dwell again in the homes of their descendants. The festivities are characterized by offerings, dances and new clothes. The ancestors must be suitably entertained and welcomed, and prayers and offerings must be made for them. In their terms it is equivalent to our Xmas so everyone is busily preparing for tomorrow. Outside each house is placed a very long bamboo pole which curves over at the top at about 6 metres high and the pole is decorated with all sorts of shapes and colours – equivalent to us decorating Xmas trees. Great preparations go into making the offerings to the gods. Katut’s wife showed us what she had made – it is difficult to describe – but there were about 20 - 30 small offerings consisting of a little basket of flowers lying on banana leaves, to which she had added a variety of articles including a coin, a few rice grains, a button, a few grass cuttings, peanuts and so on. In addition to these there were about half a dozen larger plates with fruit, cakes, biscuits and local delicacies. These are placed on the various temples in their community which are numerous – they even have their own temple in their garden.
Anyway we sat on their veranda and had lunch with Katut, his wife, his 19 year old daughter and 12 year old son. His wife kept apologising for their house, the dirt and anything else she could think of – oh dear my campaign to stop women apologising all the time has now spread to Bali. Luke suggested to Katut that he needed an entry on Trip Advisor which he and James use to find out which places to go to, good accommodation and people to use for various services. Using Katut’s daughters computer – she is studying informatics at university paid for by a variety of relatives – Luke drew up a profile for Katut which James will put on Trip Advisor for him. They felt confident enough to show us round their house which is pretty basic and Katut continues to build it when he has no customers to drive around.
After this we set off for the butterfly park which consists of a very peaceful garden with netting over the top to stop the butterflies escaping. The range of size, colour and patterning of the butterflies is stunning. We were then shown the collection of chrysalises and some newly emerged butterflies which can’t fly for the first few hours. These were placed on your hand and body for you to take photos. After this we walked through a dark tunnel where there were displays of a variety of insects, beetles and scorpion - housed in glass cages I hasten to add. The final display was of stick insect type creatures which again were placed on Luke – I declined this experience.
The next visit was up to the Batukau Temple which was in a beautiful setting against the Batukau mountain with green luxurious forests all around. We again had to put on a sarong and were then accompanied by Katut around the temple – we were amongst only a handful of other tourists - in fact I’ve had to ask Luke whether or not we actually saw anyone else. The temple turned out to be a hive of industry with great crowds of local men and women preparing for the next days celebrations and the religious leaders preparing the worship areas. In one of the villages on the way up a pig had been led across the road in front of us and into a cart attached to the back of a motorbike – the reason for its journey now became obvious!
Katut then took us across country – if you think some of our roads are narrow and potholed then Bali beats them hands down. The scenery was wonderful with vast swathes of rice terraces, forests and the mountain in the background. We went through village after village with the preparations for the celebrations going on in each one of them. The down side to all this is that it took rather a long time to get back to the villa – but when we did we found James feeling a good deal better. I sat with a gin and tonic, Luke just turned out a tasty omelette, then we reminisced about Colin and after a while we went off to bed.
More relaxing
4th July Guest Editor – Hilary Hodge
We decided another pottering around day was called for. Luke and I were up much earlier today so for the first time I ventured out at 10 am – I have avoided walking in the heat of the sun as heat and I don’t go together well. Carefully walking in the shade where there was any we made our way towards the beach – about a 10 minute walk at normal pace - which this wasn’t. We wandered along the beach path – trees shading us – until we reached our now favourite resting place for drinks – on account of the fact it has comfortable cushions to sit on – and drank iced coffees. We watched the world go by – the macho male surfers who Luke commented on – why do they have to run everywhere with their surf boards – that is before they rush into the sea – they then spend hours clambering onto them usually for a few seconds, get an adrenaline rush on top of the waves, before falling in. However quite amusing to watch and I have to admit in my younger day I would have loved to have had a go – in a non - macho way of course. Luke intends to learn – he hopes – when they get to New Zealand. We then start to wander back – stopping to have a massage in a location a little more discreet then many of the beach side locations available. I was a little hesitant having read about Luke’s previous experiences, but in fact it turned out to be a gentle and very relaxing massage with one able to gaze at the ocean, blue sky and sunshine at the same time – delightful. Back to the villa, a Luke lunch snack, a mandatory snooze and then with the pool in shade a gentle swim. James of course had been sitting in the sun on the sun lounger by the pool for most of the afternoon. I am jealous of his capacity to stay in the sun without any negative consequences. It is then time for more food so by this time James is ready to venture out with us back to the beach side restaurants where I revert to fancying a steak – yes how boring – but up until then I had Indonesian food when we ate out. Today has been a complete no alcohol one for James and me.
We decided another pottering around day was called for. Luke and I were up much earlier today so for the first time I ventured out at 10 am – I have avoided walking in the heat of the sun as heat and I don’t go together well. Carefully walking in the shade where there was any we made our way towards the beach – about a 10 minute walk at normal pace - which this wasn’t. We wandered along the beach path – trees shading us – until we reached our now favourite resting place for drinks – on account of the fact it has comfortable cushions to sit on – and drank iced coffees. We watched the world go by – the macho male surfers who Luke commented on – why do they have to run everywhere with their surf boards – that is before they rush into the sea – they then spend hours clambering onto them usually for a few seconds, get an adrenaline rush on top of the waves, before falling in. However quite amusing to watch and I have to admit in my younger day I would have loved to have had a go – in a non - macho way of course. Luke intends to learn – he hopes – when they get to New Zealand. We then start to wander back – stopping to have a massage in a location a little more discreet then many of the beach side locations available. I was a little hesitant having read about Luke’s previous experiences, but in fact it turned out to be a gentle and very relaxing massage with one able to gaze at the ocean, blue sky and sunshine at the same time – delightful. Back to the villa, a Luke lunch snack, a mandatory snooze and then with the pool in shade a gentle swim. James of course had been sitting in the sun on the sun lounger by the pool for most of the afternoon. I am jealous of his capacity to stay in the sun without any negative consequences. It is then time for more food so by this time James is ready to venture out with us back to the beach side restaurants where I revert to fancying a steak – yes how boring – but up until then I had Indonesian food when we ate out. Today has been a complete no alcohol one for James and me.
Monday, 4 July 2011
Not all monkeys are like James
3rd July Guest Editor: Hilary Hodge.
Oh dear – a somewhat heavy night has taken its toll – the teenage syndrome is back in force – so most of the morning has gone in a flash. Never mind - Luke puts on another of his snack lunches – delicious again – a short siesta – yes I know I’ve only just got up - and we get ready for Katut to pick us up at 3pm. We set off in a different direction from the other trip out but the traffic is just as chaotic. We are going to see a performance of Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance. The blurb describes it as follows – the combination of ancient ritual, dance and drama, accompanied by a choir of singing, chanting men against the backdrop of the sunset and cliff setting makes this fire dance one of the most spectacular dance performances imaginable. For once I agree with the description given – it turned out to be all that it was advertised as being.
Anyway on the way to the performance we stopped and clambered down to a beach where we sat and observed the scene and had Bali iced black coffee without sugar – would you like just a little sugar was the question when ordering – no thanks - came as a great surprise. When we arrived at the car park for the dance performance we again had to put on a sarong. Katut described the local monkeys as aggressive and informed us he would accompany us on our walk to the venue and promptly selected a large stick to ward off any attacks – I have now developed an aversion to monkeys. Anyway we arrived safely to find a packed audience – managed to get a seat with a good view of the sunset over the sea and waited expectantly for the performance to begin. The story was again the triumph of good over evil and as I described earlier it was a dramatic, entertaining and enjoyable experience. By the time it finished it was obviously dark and the monkeys had gone to bed so we were able to walk safely back to the car park where Katut was waiting to take us to a beach restaurant for a fish dinner which was delicious. When we got back to the villa I was in time to watch Djockavich win Wimbledon – again thanks to the time difference.
Oh dear – a somewhat heavy night has taken its toll – the teenage syndrome is back in force – so most of the morning has gone in a flash. Never mind - Luke puts on another of his snack lunches – delicious again – a short siesta – yes I know I’ve only just got up - and we get ready for Katut to pick us up at 3pm. We set off in a different direction from the other trip out but the traffic is just as chaotic. We are going to see a performance of Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance. The blurb describes it as follows – the combination of ancient ritual, dance and drama, accompanied by a choir of singing, chanting men against the backdrop of the sunset and cliff setting makes this fire dance one of the most spectacular dance performances imaginable. For once I agree with the description given – it turned out to be all that it was advertised as being.
Anyway on the way to the performance we stopped and clambered down to a beach where we sat and observed the scene and had Bali iced black coffee without sugar – would you like just a little sugar was the question when ordering – no thanks - came as a great surprise. When we arrived at the car park for the dance performance we again had to put on a sarong. Katut described the local monkeys as aggressive and informed us he would accompany us on our walk to the venue and promptly selected a large stick to ward off any attacks – I have now developed an aversion to monkeys. Anyway we arrived safely to find a packed audience – managed to get a seat with a good view of the sunset over the sea and waited expectantly for the performance to begin. The story was again the triumph of good over evil and as I described earlier it was a dramatic, entertaining and enjoyable experience. By the time it finished it was obviously dark and the monkeys had gone to bed so we were able to walk safely back to the car park where Katut was waiting to take us to a beach restaurant for a fish dinner which was delicious. When we got back to the villa I was in time to watch Djockavich win Wimbledon – again thanks to the time difference.
Saturday, 2 July 2011
colonial days
2nd July Guest Editor: Hilary Hodge.
Slight exhaustion from yesterday has set in – even I stayed in bed to some late hour (unheard of until recently – perhaps I’ve reached the teenage stage at last) We just pottered around, had lunch – only left overs said Luke then produced a lovely meal – no idea where he got such useful skills from – not his parents! Time for an after lunch nap. Then when the pool was in shade we had a really nice swim and laze about – what about a Pimms before dinner was the cry – delightful. We have moved the arm chairs onto the veranda where we spend quite a bit of time reading etc – Luke keeps referring to colonial times – the maids come and clean every day – not always the case when you hire a villa - the driver is coming for us again tomorrow – you get the picture. Later we walk down to the beach and along the path with restaurants on our left and the sea on our right. It is a beautiful evening, we sit and have cocktails before dinner, watch the sunset over the hills with mist swirling around them and then move to a fish restaurant for dinner – the colonial overtones reemerge.
Just some initial impressions of Bali before I forget them. I have already described the chaos on the roads so I won’t return to that. To get to the main road from our villa you walk along narrow lanes with houses of different types on either side most enclosed by high walls. Cars just about get along these, but as you walk it is mopeds, motorbikes and bicycles that keep passing you always ringing the bell so that you know they are coming particularly if they are behind you. Many of the houses on the lane have the front open to the lane selling a variety of things but often with not a lot of goods. All along the lane people place offerings to the gods which consist of little baskets of flowers which have been arranged in different ways. Sitting typing this I can hear a bell being rung – it is 1pm – which tells people that the street food vendor is doing his/her rounds pushing a cart with whatever food has been prepared today – I have yet to try any but the boys have eaten from street vendors many times on their travels. The more negative aspects include the amount of rubbish which is strewn alongside the lanes and roads and the dogs wandering around, although these are obviously domesticated as they all have collars and seem quite docile. I suspect that it is a nation of public squalor but private cleanliness.
A note for Carole, Sarah, Griz and Sandra plus others – I have been thinking about you ‘enjoying’ yourselves at Youth Band camp – hope you have survived and that all has gone well – there has been just a hint of a guilty feeling at not having been able to help as had been promised but fortunately the feeling soon wore off!!!!
Slight exhaustion from yesterday has set in – even I stayed in bed to some late hour (unheard of until recently – perhaps I’ve reached the teenage stage at last) We just pottered around, had lunch – only left overs said Luke then produced a lovely meal – no idea where he got such useful skills from – not his parents! Time for an after lunch nap. Then when the pool was in shade we had a really nice swim and laze about – what about a Pimms before dinner was the cry – delightful. We have moved the arm chairs onto the veranda where we spend quite a bit of time reading etc – Luke keeps referring to colonial times – the maids come and clean every day – not always the case when you hire a villa - the driver is coming for us again tomorrow – you get the picture. Later we walk down to the beach and along the path with restaurants on our left and the sea on our right. It is a beautiful evening, we sit and have cocktails before dinner, watch the sunset over the hills with mist swirling around them and then move to a fish restaurant for dinner – the colonial overtones reemerge.
Just some initial impressions of Bali before I forget them. I have already described the chaos on the roads so I won’t return to that. To get to the main road from our villa you walk along narrow lanes with houses of different types on either side most enclosed by high walls. Cars just about get along these, but as you walk it is mopeds, motorbikes and bicycles that keep passing you always ringing the bell so that you know they are coming particularly if they are behind you. Many of the houses on the lane have the front open to the lane selling a variety of things but often with not a lot of goods. All along the lane people place offerings to the gods which consist of little baskets of flowers which have been arranged in different ways. Sitting typing this I can hear a bell being rung – it is 1pm – which tells people that the street food vendor is doing his/her rounds pushing a cart with whatever food has been prepared today – I have yet to try any but the boys have eaten from street vendors many times on their travels. The more negative aspects include the amount of rubbish which is strewn alongside the lanes and roads and the dogs wandering around, although these are obviously domesticated as they all have collars and seem quite docile. I suspect that it is a nation of public squalor but private cleanliness.
A note for Carole, Sarah, Griz and Sandra plus others – I have been thinking about you ‘enjoying’ yourselves at Youth Band camp – hope you have survived and that all has gone well – there has been just a hint of a guilty feeling at not having been able to help as had been promised but fortunately the feeling soon wore off!!!!
Exploring Bali
1st July. Guest editor: Hilary Hodge.
Big adventure day –which meant that James had to be up and ready to leave at 8.30am – oh dear. The driver Katut or some such name – I can’t get English names right so no hope for this one – duly arrived on time with a comfortable air conditioned car. We set off for a driving experience unlike any other I have ever had – bearing in mind I used to drive in London. I shudder to think what the accident and injury rate must be – although I am assured by Luke and James that the driving is sedate in comparison with India. It appears that nobody bothers to look at what is coming, they pull straight out from wherever they happen to be and weaving in and out of lines of cars are about a million mopeds and motorbikes. Many of these seem to be carrying the whole family plus whatever it is they wish to transport at any one time including sticks of reeds/palms sticking out either side of the bike apparently to thatch their roofs with. The other distressing thing about this is that although usually the driver has a helmet mostly the children that they are carrying do not – oh well there we go.
Our first stop is to watch the Barong Kris Dance – yes at 9.30 in the morning. According to the programme we are given which is written with a distinctive approach to English translation the spectacle we are about to see is loosely about the triumph of good over evil. I will not attempt to explain the story further. Whilst we are waiting for the performance to start the band entertains us. This is located to the right of the stage as we look at it and consists entirely of men in colourful outfits (with no hats – Sarah will understand that comment) who are playing a variety of xylophone type instruments and versions of drums. The intensity and speed of hitting their instrument matches that of the actors when they eventually appear. However, the back row xylophone players in particular obviously do not have to concentrate very hard as they spend their time observing the audience and looking bored stiff – unlike Sedbergh Town Band players who need to concentrate at all times !!! The dancers are in colourful outfits, several represent animals – the tiger, monkey and boar included – and mainly perform through distinctive movements including elaborate ones of the hands and eyes. Anyway it is all very entertaining but one wondered how representative of the Bali culture it really was. However, we got our answer later in the day when we saw several village processions that reminded us of what we had seen earlier.
Katut then took us to a tourist shop which we duly spent about 2 minutes in and then explained that we don’t do shopping so please don’t take us to any more. We did relent on the silver maker as we were assured we could see craft in action – but it was the silver smith’s day off when we got there. However a brief look round did result in a small purchase – the only one of the day. What about the bird park – well OK – despite Hilary’s aversion to them being too close - but when $25 was required for each of us to enter there was a quick retreat – would we be able to find Katut amongst the plethora of vehicles as he had only just left us – no problem – he was getting our measure. Well what do you like to do – to which we replied nice scenery and things of interest. OK then we go to the rice terraces which were worth seeing. On the way we stopped at the monkey park where the monkeys are everywhere including on the shop roofs. As you enter the very lush green tree lined park clutching the handful of bananas just purchased for the purpose they line up to bully you into giving them one which they then proceed to peel and eat. I did not enter into this game as I had observed one of the monkeys jumping on to a previous supplier and did not wish to be involved in such an encounter.
We also stopped at one of the ubiquitous temples – they are literally everywhere – people even have little ones in their gardens. They practice a Bali version of Hinduism which is unlike anything anywhere else. The temples consist of lots of structures with numerous carvings of people, animals, deities- I suppose the nearest description would be alters in our terms – gathered together outside with a wall around them. The one we stopped to look around had a lady standing at the entrance who insisted on putting a sarong around each of our waists and affixing a sash as well. This was followed by offering to take photos of us and finally on exit a demand for 30,000 rupia for the pleasure. I think it was a bit of entreprenurial activity on her part as it wasn’t a tourist stopping point – we had only stopped there as I wanted to take a photo of the first rice field I had ever seen. However, I suspect the money was to support the temple as the spirit of community is very strongly ingrained in the culture.
It was now time for lunch – we don’t want to go where there are a lot of tourists we say – of course we aren’t tourists are we – but Katut is onto this now - so he takes us to a nice restaurant with a fabulous view where we all have a very pleasant meal. By now Katut has entered into the spirit of things and at the end of the meal tries to give the boys one of his extremely high tar cigarettes (for men you understand – not the low tar pretend ones they smoke) but one puff each was all they could manage I am glad to say.
We then continued on our way up to view the 2 volcanoes – the black lava of which was still visible from the most recent eruption in 2002. On the way back down we stopped at a coffee plantation and sampled the different varieties on offer (provided free in the hopes of subsequent purchases) However, we thanked them for the free samples which we had enjoyed and left to complete our journey back to the villa with Luke dozing off in the front seat. So ended our adventure. Watching Wimbledon live – the men’s semis – the time difference has some advantages or not when it came to the Murray match – completed my day.
Big adventure day –which meant that James had to be up and ready to leave at 8.30am – oh dear. The driver Katut or some such name – I can’t get English names right so no hope for this one – duly arrived on time with a comfortable air conditioned car. We set off for a driving experience unlike any other I have ever had – bearing in mind I used to drive in London. I shudder to think what the accident and injury rate must be – although I am assured by Luke and James that the driving is sedate in comparison with India. It appears that nobody bothers to look at what is coming, they pull straight out from wherever they happen to be and weaving in and out of lines of cars are about a million mopeds and motorbikes. Many of these seem to be carrying the whole family plus whatever it is they wish to transport at any one time including sticks of reeds/palms sticking out either side of the bike apparently to thatch their roofs with. The other distressing thing about this is that although usually the driver has a helmet mostly the children that they are carrying do not – oh well there we go.
Our first stop is to watch the Barong Kris Dance – yes at 9.30 in the morning. According to the programme we are given which is written with a distinctive approach to English translation the spectacle we are about to see is loosely about the triumph of good over evil. I will not attempt to explain the story further. Whilst we are waiting for the performance to start the band entertains us. This is located to the right of the stage as we look at it and consists entirely of men in colourful outfits (with no hats – Sarah will understand that comment) who are playing a variety of xylophone type instruments and versions of drums. The intensity and speed of hitting their instrument matches that of the actors when they eventually appear. However, the back row xylophone players in particular obviously do not have to concentrate very hard as they spend their time observing the audience and looking bored stiff – unlike Sedbergh Town Band players who need to concentrate at all times !!! The dancers are in colourful outfits, several represent animals – the tiger, monkey and boar included – and mainly perform through distinctive movements including elaborate ones of the hands and eyes. Anyway it is all very entertaining but one wondered how representative of the Bali culture it really was. However, we got our answer later in the day when we saw several village processions that reminded us of what we had seen earlier.
Katut then took us to a tourist shop which we duly spent about 2 minutes in and then explained that we don’t do shopping so please don’t take us to any more. We did relent on the silver maker as we were assured we could see craft in action – but it was the silver smith’s day off when we got there. However a brief look round did result in a small purchase – the only one of the day. What about the bird park – well OK – despite Hilary’s aversion to them being too close - but when $25 was required for each of us to enter there was a quick retreat – would we be able to find Katut amongst the plethora of vehicles as he had only just left us – no problem – he was getting our measure. Well what do you like to do – to which we replied nice scenery and things of interest. OK then we go to the rice terraces which were worth seeing. On the way we stopped at the monkey park where the monkeys are everywhere including on the shop roofs. As you enter the very lush green tree lined park clutching the handful of bananas just purchased for the purpose they line up to bully you into giving them one which they then proceed to peel and eat. I did not enter into this game as I had observed one of the monkeys jumping on to a previous supplier and did not wish to be involved in such an encounter.
We also stopped at one of the ubiquitous temples – they are literally everywhere – people even have little ones in their gardens. They practice a Bali version of Hinduism which is unlike anything anywhere else. The temples consist of lots of structures with numerous carvings of people, animals, deities- I suppose the nearest description would be alters in our terms – gathered together outside with a wall around them. The one we stopped to look around had a lady standing at the entrance who insisted on putting a sarong around each of our waists and affixing a sash as well. This was followed by offering to take photos of us and finally on exit a demand for 30,000 rupia for the pleasure. I think it was a bit of entreprenurial activity on her part as it wasn’t a tourist stopping point – we had only stopped there as I wanted to take a photo of the first rice field I had ever seen. However, I suspect the money was to support the temple as the spirit of community is very strongly ingrained in the culture.
It was now time for lunch – we don’t want to go where there are a lot of tourists we say – of course we aren’t tourists are we – but Katut is onto this now - so he takes us to a nice restaurant with a fabulous view where we all have a very pleasant meal. By now Katut has entered into the spirit of things and at the end of the meal tries to give the boys one of his extremely high tar cigarettes (for men you understand – not the low tar pretend ones they smoke) but one puff each was all they could manage I am glad to say.
We then continued on our way up to view the 2 volcanoes – the black lava of which was still visible from the most recent eruption in 2002. On the way back down we stopped at a coffee plantation and sampled the different varieties on offer (provided free in the hopes of subsequent purchases) However, we thanked them for the free samples which we had enjoyed and left to complete our journey back to the villa with Luke dozing off in the front seat. So ended our adventure. Watching Wimbledon live – the men’s semis – the time difference has some advantages or not when it came to the Murray match – completed my day.
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