Exploring Bali

1st July. Guest editor: Hilary Hodge.

Big adventure day –which meant that James had to be up and ready to leave at 8.30am – oh dear. The driver Katut or some such name – I can’t get English names right so no hope for this one – duly arrived on time with a comfortable air conditioned car. We set off for a driving experience unlike any other I have ever had – bearing in mind I used to drive in London. I shudder to think what the accident and injury rate must be – although I am assured by Luke and James that the driving is sedate in comparison with India. It appears that nobody bothers to look at what is coming, they pull straight out from wherever they happen to be and weaving in and out of lines of cars are about a million mopeds and motorbikes. Many of these seem to be carrying the whole family plus whatever it is they wish to transport at any one time including sticks of reeds/palms sticking out either side of the bike apparently to thatch their roofs with. The other distressing thing about this is that although usually the driver has a helmet mostly the children that they are carrying do not – oh well there we go.

Our first stop is to watch the Barong Kris Dance – yes at 9.30 in the morning. According to the programme we are given which is written with a distinctive approach to English translation the spectacle we are about to see is loosely about the triumph of good over evil. I will not attempt to explain the story further. Whilst we are waiting for the performance to start the band entertains us. This is located to the right of the stage as we look at it and consists entirely of men in colourful outfits (with no hats – Sarah will understand that comment) who are playing a variety of xylophone type instruments and versions of drums. The intensity and speed of hitting their instrument matches that of the actors when they eventually appear. However, the back row xylophone players in particular obviously do not have to concentrate very hard as they spend their time observing the audience and looking bored stiff – unlike Sedbergh Town Band players who need to concentrate at all times !!! The dancers are in colourful outfits, several represent animals – the tiger, monkey and boar included – and mainly perform through distinctive movements including elaborate ones of the hands and eyes. Anyway it is all very entertaining but one wondered how representative of the Bali culture it really was. However, we got our answer later in the day when we saw several village processions that reminded us of what we had seen earlier.

Katut then took us to a tourist shop which we duly spent about 2 minutes in and then explained that we don’t do shopping so please don’t take us to any more. We did relent on the silver maker as we were assured we could see craft in action – but it was the silver smith’s day off when we got there. However a brief look round did result in a small purchase – the only one of the day. What about the bird park – well OK – despite Hilary’s aversion to them being too close - but when $25 was required for each of us to enter there was a quick retreat – would we be able to find Katut amongst the plethora of vehicles as he had only just left us – no problem – he was getting our measure. Well what do you like to do – to which we replied nice scenery and things of interest. OK then we go to the rice terraces which were worth seeing. On the way we stopped at the monkey park where the monkeys are everywhere including on the shop roofs. As you enter the very lush green tree lined park clutching the handful of bananas just purchased for the purpose they line up to bully you into giving them one which they then proceed to peel and eat. I did not enter into this game as I had observed one of the monkeys jumping on to a previous supplier and did not wish to be involved in such an encounter.

We also stopped at one of the ubiquitous temples – they are literally everywhere – people even have little ones in their gardens. They practice a Bali version of Hinduism which is unlike anything anywhere else. The temples consist of lots of structures with numerous carvings of people, animals, deities- I suppose the nearest description would be alters in our terms – gathered together outside with a wall around them. The one we stopped to look around had a lady standing at the entrance who insisted on putting a sarong around each of our waists and affixing a sash as well. This was followed by offering to take photos of us and finally on exit a demand for 30,000 rupia for the pleasure. I think it was a bit of entreprenurial activity on her part as it wasn’t a tourist stopping point – we had only stopped there as I wanted to take a photo of the first rice field I had ever seen. However, I suspect the money was to support the temple as the spirit of community is very strongly ingrained in the culture.

It was now time for lunch – we don’t want to go where there are a lot of tourists we say – of course we aren’t tourists are we – but Katut is onto this now - so he takes us to a nice restaurant with a fabulous view where we all have a very pleasant meal. By now Katut has entered into the spirit of things and at the end of the meal tries to give the boys one of his extremely high tar cigarettes (for men you understand – not the low tar pretend ones they smoke) but one puff each was all they could manage I am glad to say.
We then continued on our way up to view the 2 volcanoes – the black lava of which was still visible from the most recent eruption in 2002. On the way back down we stopped at a coffee plantation and sampled the different varieties on offer (provided free in the hopes of subsequent purchases) However, we thanked them for the free samples which we had enjoyed and left to complete our journey back to the villa with Luke dozing off in the front seat. So ended our adventure. Watching Wimbledon live – the men’s semis – the time difference has some advantages or not when it came to the Murray match – completed my day.